A Quiet Place Indeed

It is a still and hazy day. Wind-swept streaks of high cloud suggest that it is not this quiet in other parts of the country and strong winds are forecast in the Aegean. We have had extremely heavy dewfall and anything left out overnight is absolutely sodden the next morning. As the sun sets on north facing properties at about 3 p.m the temperature falls very quickly and the nights are cold. At this time of the year the difference between the various micro-climates becomes very distinct, with gaudy geraniums still in bloom in the suntraps while those places in permanent shade are velvety with moss.

There is the whiff of bonfires on the air as locals burn rubbish and clear their terraces. Everyone is trying to get the ploughing done before the next rain turns the fields to clay once more so all weekend there was the happy puttering of rotovators in the Pedi valley. Those who had the time to get this done in October, when the first rains fell, are already looking at neat carpets of fresh green grazing.

There are not many places open now and the harbour has a deserted, boarded up feel to it. Postcards, sarongs and tourist items have given way to winter clothes, electric heaters and blankets in the few places that are still open and one tourist shop has reinvented itself once again as a speciality Christmas shop. There are few strangers on the island at this time of the year and the odd out of season travelers that the ferry brings in are conspicuous with their rucksacks and wheelie suitcases. Symi in the winter is a quiet place indeed.

Have a good week.


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About this Blog

I sailed into Panormitis Bay, Symi, by chance one windy July day in 1993 and have been here ever since. The locals tell me that this is one of the miracles of St Michael of Panormitis. A BA graduate with majors in English, Philosophy and Classical Civilisation, the idea of living in what is to all intents and purposes an archaeological site appeals to me. Not as small as Kastellorizo, not as touristy as Rhodes, Symi is just the right size. I live on a small holding which my husband and I have reclaimed from a ruin of over-grazing and neglect and turned into a small oasis over the course of the past 22 years. I also work part-time for Symi Visitor Accommodation, helping independent travellers discover and enjoy Symi's simple pleasures for themselves.

This page is kindly sponsored by Wendy Wilcox, Symi Visitor Accommodation.

Adriana Shum

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