Hellenic Blues - Some More Holiday Snaps

Look at the colour of that sea!  This was taken from the deck as we were approaching Piraeus.

Syrian refugee families sitting along with their new Greek friends at the cafe on the top deck of the Blue Star.  

Cleaning the boat in Piraeus.

The graffiti artist behind this piece of street art evidently doesn't realise is that Fix beer, Greece's oldest brewery, was started by a Herr Fuchs, official brewer to the court of King Otto of Bavaria when he was crowned first King of the Hellenes. As the locals could not pronounce Fuchs it became Fix.  The brand still exists but is now indeed a Greek beer.

Among the low rise modern hotels and office buildings in central Athens there are many neglected and abandoned neo-classical buildings.  A pigeon has taken over this one in the Plaka.

That wooden contraption has been rigged to prevent bits of falling masonry from hitting pedestrians below.

This one was evidently lovingly restored and then abandoned more recently.

There are lots of tiny lanes and pedestrian ways to explore.

Fresh produce for sale near the entrance to the flea market.

If you look carefully that is indeed the Acropolis in the background.

Ancient churches, 19th century neo-classical buildings, antiquities and modern shopping brands make a patchwork of contrasts in central Chorio.

As we were strolling during the Saturday afternoon siesta I don't know if this shop has closed due to the recession or simply for lunch.  The old boy playing the hurdy gurdy however is an example of the countless different kinds of street musicians to be seen - and heard - on the streets of Athens.  Many of them having been playing traditional music on the streets of Athens for decades - we spoke to one chap (he did not want his photo taken) who has been doing this for a living since arriving in the city 30 years ago.  He was in his fifties then and is in his eighties now.

The monument commemorating the battle of Thermophylae, which we passed on the way to Meteora.  Pity about the power pylons.

The battlefield.  At the time this was a bottle neck between the mountains and the sea but the shore has silted up over the centuries and it is now well inland.

These are the last of the photographs from my recent trip to Athens.  Meanwhile, here on Symi it is baking hot and very busy as we have had a lot of visitors from Turkey, celebrating the Eid holiday. The Greek border islands are very popular with Turkish tourists as they are an opportunity to experience something different without going too far from home.  Lots of other nationalities are arriving now too - French, Italian, Spanish, Norwegian, German, Danish, Finnish, British, Australian - we have quite a mix staying in our houses at the moment.

The banks reopened today, providing a limited service.  There are still restrictions in place for Greek bank account holders and it is not possible to send money abroad due to the capital controls.  We are also limited to a maximum withdrawal of 420 euros per week (60 euros per day) but at least we don't have to take it out in 7 trips to the ATM!  Foreign tourists are not affected as they have cards linked to foreign bank accounts and can withdraw up to their regular card limits. The only tourists who are suffering are the Greek ones, alas, as with all the banking restrictions they cannot withdraw enough money from their accounts to cover their holidays, which is very sad. While Symi is managing fine as we have two banks, both with ATMs, some of the smaller and more remote islands which don't have banks or ATMs and are more dependent on internal Greek tourism are really battling to function as they have no means of accessing cash at all.

There is plenty of stuff in the shops and so far no one has reported any shortages although there are some delays in building materials, spare parts and appliances that are not produced in Greece and not routinely kept in stock.  No doubt various systems will evolve eventually to solve all these problems.

Have a good week.

Regards,
Adriana

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Quiet Moments

The summer solstice has passed and the nights are drawing in – but with temperatures still in the high thirties/low forties winter is not exactly round the corner and the main Greek summer tourist season still lies ahead. Symi is slowly filling up with many more familiar faces and regular visitors in evidence around the island. The landscape looks scorched as the hot dry winds of summer have turned the winter grasses to straw. The only green left is the heat resistant stuff – grape vines, Virginia creepers and caper bushes. All the fine shallow rooted vegetation has burned away and most of the indigenous plants such as the wild thyme, sage and oregano bushes have become brown and dormant. The only clue to their respective identities is the fragrance they still emit in the heat of the day. They will only revive with the first winter rains some time in October. Flamboyant patches of cerise pink bougainvillea light up the courtyards of the houses in Yialos and Chorio. In quiet moments in the Pedi valley there is the constant soft crackle of leaves shriveling and dropping from the almond trees and the delicate cooing of doves.

The media, both Greek and foreign, have given a great deal of coverage to the opening of the new Acropolis Museum in Athens, an historic and controversial event. Aside from the Elgin marbles debate which is certainly getting an airing, it is also an excellent opportunity for visitors and locals alike to be reminded of the glory that was Ancient Greece. A good excuse to fly scheduled via Athens instead of directly to Rhodes. For more details see here.

Have a good week.

Regards,
Adriana

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