A Walk Around Old Datca, Turkey

The little chapel on the island at Agia Marina at the entrance to Pedi Bay, Symi - beautifully maintained by her wardens and a popular venue for wedding blessings.

A tiny neglected and defaced Greek chapel near the shore in a small bay near Datca, Turkey.  It is now used a a cattle byre.  A very different story to the brightly whitewashed chapel on Agia Marina, Symi.

A restoredl 19th century neo-classical house in Old Datca, (Eski Datca), Turkey.  While the architecture echoes that of Symi and the original residents were undoubtedly Greek a huge difference between Symi and Datca is the bountiful supplies of water on the Datca peninsular.  Even this late in the season streams and rivers criss cross the landscape and this mansion has a splendid garden with ponds and fountains.

Another view of the same garden, looking towards an adjoining property.

As we strolled around Old Datca and spotted this ginger tom, mewing at a kitchen window.  

More Old Datca houses that have been restored but without the painstaking attention to detail that is characteristic of Symi.

The mosque in Eski Datca.

Where Symi is famous for its delicate ochre and terracotta palette and decorative plaster work,  Eski Datca is predominantly unplastered, showing off the local stone.

This was the only door we saw that had the details typical of the 19th century carpentry of Symi and there is very little of it left.  Most of the elaborate trim has long since disappeared.

Everywhere is very green and lush due to the abundant water supply.  While the houses of Symi have little outside space and are often joined to their neighbours on the cliffsides, the Greek community that lived here would have been very comfortable, with big gardens and plenty of privacy.

One of the few plastered houses we saw and the only one we spotted with a decorate metal grille in the bull's eye on the pediment.

Regular visitors to Symi from many years ago, particularly those who used to read our newspaper, the Symi Visitor, may remember the name Nihat Akkaraca.  He was a local historian in Datca and played a large role, not just in restoring Eski Datca, but also in fostering links between the communities of Symi and Datca.  He sadly passed away a few years ago but this small square in Eski Datca is named after him.

I went to Datca, Symi's Turkish neighbour, for the weekend, and I thought you might be interested to see the architecture of the old village, a little way inland from the modern seaside resort town of Datca.  It is amazing what a difference a plentiful water supply makes! I imagine that in the old days of the Ottoman empire when there was no international boundary between the two, Greek families sent barrels of water by caique across from verdant Datca to their parched cousins on Symi.

I am switching to winter hours this week so I will only be in the Symi Visitor Accommodation office three mornings a week, Monday, Wednesday and Friday.

Have a good week.

Regards,
Adriana

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A Walk in the Winter Sun

Wild cyclamens growing from a gate on the Kali Strata.  

Somehow the fat purple tubers find enough space between the dressed stones to survive from one year to the next, inaccessible unless the masonry is actually taken apart, and provide a charming floral interlude each winter.

Sunshine and shade in a lane off the Kali Strata. 

That is the little monastery on Nimos visible across the water in the background.  The puddle on the paving is the only clue to the recent heavy rain, that and the small clump of weeds at the base of the wall.  It is not unusual to find sheep browsing on the wild flowers on the Kali Strata at this time of the year.  Free grazing is always welcome.

Arbour Day?

Much to the amazement of many, Symi Town Hall has embarked upon a tree planting campaign in the town square in Yialos.  It is a strange location to be planting a new forest but no doubt the story behind it will be revealed eventually.  The first hurdle will be how well the saplings survive the annual carnival festivities that will be taking place in the square this weekend.  The children present their tableaux on the stage currently half-hidden by the diggers and plastic chairs are laid out in rows on the area now being planted.

A place in the sun.

At this time of the year many houses, such as Villa Iris and Spiti Grand Helene, are still closed up for the winter but those that are occupied are easily identified by the rugs and blankets airing over the balconies on sunny days.

Some Chorio cats soaking up the winter sunshine. 

This is the lane that leads from the Cottage to the shops and tavernas in the village.  In a few weeks that green patch will be a mass of yellow daisies and by the time the July tourists are here the same path will be baked bare.  Only the cats remain constant.  Symi's face changes with the seasons and there is always something new to look at, even as one walks the same paths and byways.  

Have a good week.

Regards,

Adriana

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Clear, Calm and Warm in the Sunshine

Looking towards Nimos and the resorts along the Turkish coast.

Looking down on Pedi Bay from the top of the Vigla

Saturday was a perfect winter’s day – clear, calm and warm in the sunshine.  We went up the Vigla, Symi’s highest mountain,  in the afternoon, in search of snow views across the water, but the little row of clouds on the horizon perversely remained lined up along the Turkish mountain tops, masking the snowcapped peaks.  Vigla means sentinel and the name as apt as you can see from the photographs.  The ancient inhabitants of Symi would have been able to monitor any threat from the sea from all directions.

The cats of Agios Thanassis.

I wonder who put this optimistic geranium out amongst the ruins.
 Rain-streaked whitewash flakes away to reveal the colours of previous spring-cleaning.

Up in the lanes of Chorio a cat makes his mark on someone's new washing machine...  Getting domestic appliances up through the narrow lanes is quite a business as the nearest vehicle access is a good 10 minutes away - and routes have to be planned carefully to take into account sudden narrowings such as that at the top of this flight of steps.

New blossom and the last of the old nuts right at the top of the tree.

On Sunday the rain resumed and this morning the Proteus was unable to do her scheduled trip to Rhodes due to heavy swell in Rhodes harbour.  She will be going tomorrow instead.  Even in years when we have had a regular winter ferry schedule, weather frequently interferes with the most carefully made plans.  It only takes an easterly or south-easterly wind to close Mandraki and Rhodes’ commercial harbour or a Force 9 gale in the Aegean to bring shipping to a standstill.  On days like this Symi and the other small Greek islands scattered across storm tossed waters are almost as isolated and dependent on their own resources as they were in ancient times.  No wonder the island Greeks are a tough and resilient people and it is this fortitude that will help Greece survive the present economic storm.

 Have a good week.

 Regards,

 Adriana

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Royal Wedding Fever

The Authentic Royal Wedding Bunting

Royal Wedding fever has spread as far as our small corner of the Aegean, and we even have the bunting to prove it. The Olive Tree café in Chorio is hosting a Royal Wedding Street Party today, in the lane between the Hotel Fiona and the Olive Tree. In keeping with the nature of the event cucumber sandwiches and trifle will be eaten and Symi Visitor Accommodation has donated a basket of fresh locally grown vegetables as a prize for the tombola.

The prize - with the picture book village, Chorio, in the background.

Let us not forget that the British Royal Family has Greek connections, not least of which being that Ex King Constantine of the Hellenes is Prince William’s godfather. Long term visitors and readers of the late Symi Visitor newspaper will remember that we interviewed Constantine when he visited Symi in 2005 for the Aegean Regatta. Celebrity watching is as popular in Greece as it is anywhere else and although Greece is no longer a monarchy, the Greeks are still interested in the activities of their own, now deposed, Royal Family, hence the mass media coverage when Prince Nicholas was married to Tatiana Blatnik on Spetses last year.

Kate Middleton’s hair style is a popular one in Greece where young women traditionally favour long flowing locks and waist length hair is more likely to be natural than the result of extensions so hers is a look that people can relate to. It is unlikely, though, that Symi is the honeymoon destination – we have not seen any security chaps peering into plant pots around the harbour or sealing off restaurants as was the case when George Bush senior paid us a visit in June 2004.

Have a good weekend.  I am off to drink Buck's Fizz and eat cucumber sandwiches...

Regards,
Adriana

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Under the Mediterranean Sun

Symi is steaming gently under the Mediterranean sun as unusually humid conditions prevail. Mist was still hanging low over the water when the Poseidon did the dawn trip to Sesklia for the festival of St Paul at the chapel on the island. Books forgotten out in the garden overnight curl damply and heavy dew drips off the parked cars. The southerly winds responsible for these conditions will be changing to the north again later this week and we will soon be back to cardboard washing stiff on the line. Other parts of Greece have experienced extremely heavy showers and the second day of the annual Rockwave festival in Athens had to be cancelled after heavy rain damaged the stage and equipment.

Symi is becoming steadily busier although most businesses report a quieter than usual June and the island certainly seems emptier than normal for the time of year. Supermarkets are doing better than tavernas and restaurants as cash-strapped travelers cut holiday spending by taking more meals in the accommodation and buying wine to enjoy on the terrace or balcony rather than rounds of drinks in the café bars. Visitors have been spotted shopping for ripe watermelons from the hawkers and buying chops at the butchers – while slaving over a hot stove might not be everyone’s idea of a perfect island holiday, a spot of imaginative self-catering can certainly help to stretch the family holiday budget and these days most good quality holiday accommodation is equipped with a barbecue for al fresco cooking and dining.

Have a good week.

Regards,
Adriana

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Cabbages to Carpets

The halcyon days may be coming to an end as a spell of unsettled weather is expected to bring countrywide showers over the next few days. Wind-torn high clouds already hint at gales in the Aegean and further shipping disruptions are likely due to industrial action among port workers in Greece's major harbours.

While we are all waiting to find out what the ferry schedules will be to get us from Symi to Rhodes and vice versa between now and April, a Google news alert has just popped up to advise us that a luxury Silversea cruise ship will be passing through Symi in the week starting 12 September 2009, on a voyage from Istanbul to Athens. Now that's what I call forward planning.

Meanwhile the crowds are gathering on the quay below our office window, waiting for the Proteus to come in from Rhodes. The orange seller's truck has more empty crates than full ones so bad luck, Tilos and Nissyros. The peripatetic hawkers of everything from cabbages to carpets are an essential part of island life in the winter and everyone waits with interest to see what will roll off the boat next. Limited choices are a characteristic of island life but the very randomness of what those choices are adds an element of excitement never to be found in huge shopping malls where everything is available all year round.

Have a good weekend.

Regards,
Adriana

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The Serenade from Cyprus 19 July 2007

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On the Beach

Symi report 22 June

It is a bright sunny day on Symi and the temperature continues to rise. The Greek media have been full of warnings regarding energy saving measures to avoid heatwave related power cuts and downtown Athens is sweltering in the smog. Here on Symi a quick glance out of the window reveals very little human activity as the day trippers are in the shade of cafe bars and tavernas and visitors resident on the island are all on the beach. The excursion boats and water taxis have reported a brisk upturn in business as everyone heads for the relative coolness of the sea. Umbrellas are sprouting like exotic mushrooms on balconies around the harbour and only the foolhardy venture forth without hats.

Speaking of hats, it is now a rare thing indeed to see anyone on a motorbike without a helmet as the new traffic regulations and draconian fines for violations have spread panic amongst locals and visitors alike. With fines in three figures no one is taking chances anymore and the police have been zealous. It may just be urban legend but there is talk that someone has been fined for using a mobile phone while driving and the police are also enforcing the wearing of seat belts and are checking driving licenses.

On the ferry front, the Symi now comes direct to Yialos in the mornings, arriving at about eleven, and leaves again at 14.00 to return to Rhodes via Panormitis. The Symi II is now running a regular tourist schedule, as is the Nikolaos, but as they overnight in Rhodes there is still an inconvenient lack of 18.30 connections from Rhodes to Symi.

Have a peaceful weekend.

Regards,
Adriana

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