Snails, Plastic and Rick Stein

The snails are back!

Wind patterns on the water in Pedi.

The acorns are plumping on old valonia oak at Lieni in Chorio.

Dusting off the outdoor heaters.

All wrapped up against the rain.

Symi's various cafes, bars, tavernas and restaurants don't have much in the way of inside seating, if any at all.  Instead they use a combination of awnings and clear plastic 'tents' to provide shelter for their customers during the autumn and spring months when there is the possibility of rain and chilly evenings.  It may seem like camping but they are surprisingly effective, particularly when combined with the heaters above.

The much anticipated rain did not come to much on Symi - about a millimetre late on Friday night, just enough to make patterns in the dust, and then another 2 millimetres early on Sunday morning which brought the snails out in their droves.  I was out with the salt cellar, saving my seedlings from the ravenous slithering hordes.  Saturday, the day which was supposed to be really stormy with heavy thundershowers, turned out overcast and very windy but with no rain. There is no more rain for the foreseeable future but temperatures are a bit lower than usual for this time of the year - mostly in the low twenties now with night time temperatures around 17 degrees centigrade and quite breezy.

Many of the seasonal businesses have now packed up for the year, particularly the ones owned by Athenians such as the new beach at Petalo.  They are usually only active in the peak months of July, August and September anyway.  The cruise ship Salamis Filoxenia was in yesterday and the Blue Star this morning brought a lot of visitors to Panormitis, judging by the convoy of mini buses heading up the hill.  One advantage of the slightly chilly weather is that there are lots more day-trippers from Rhodes visiting the island so the cafes are busy.  Rhodes is much more exposed to the wind so those who are not interested in wind-surfing off Ialyssos are on Symi, sipping lattes and people-watching in Yialos.

One late season surprise visitor was celebrity chef, Rick Stein. Wendy ran into him at Giorgio and Maria's taverna in Chorio yesterday.  He fell in love with Symi while shooting the kitchen shots of his BBC series, 'From Venice to Istanbul' in one of our houses back in 2014.  Sofia's House, the villa that he used is unfortunately no longer a rental property but we have plenty of other houses if you want to enjoy Symi like a celebrity.

Rick and Sarah Stein with Wendy Wilcox, the proprietor of Symi Visitor Accommodation.

Have a good week.

Regards,
Adriana

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July Postcards from Symi

The Cypriot  Salamis Filoxenia is the largest cruise ship that can actually dock in Yialos.  The rest, if they come our way, anchor off in Nimborio bay and bring their guests ashore in lighters.  

After a searing heatwave of over a week with temperatures in the mid to high forties, Symi's plant life is a bit frazzled.  The bougainvilleas and many trees and shrubs are shedding flowers, bracts and leaves with every puff of wind.  Temperatures have now dropped back into the thirties and feel quite reasonable after what we have been through recently.

Discreet advertising on the Kali Strata.  Symi is popular with artists of all kinds, inspired by the architecture, the landscape, the sparkling Aegean light...  If you are looking for somewhere to spark your muse, come to Symi!

The view from the Symi Visitor balcony is much busier than it was a week or so ago.  Ferries, cruise ships, water taxis, excursion boats, gulets, private yachts - there's always something coming or going every time I look out.

The Blue Star Paros has taken over from the Patmos for the summer.  Smaller and nippier, you can't miss her arrivals and departures as she plays little ice cream van jingles as the ramp goes down and up.

Once upon a time the sponge merchants of Symi sat out on these balconies, looking out for the fleet returning from the sponge grounds off Bengazi in Libya. That black car in the background is actually on the top of the hill on the other side of the harbour!  Symi's dimensions are Toy Town.

Keeping to the shady side of the street.

Looking up the Kali Strata from near the bottom, near the Old Markets hotel.

Summer colours

A new cantina has opened above me, at Agia Marina cemetery  (not to be confused with Agia Marina beach which is a different place altogether!).  A low budget enterprise, most of the furniture has been made from old pallets.  They will be grilling souvlaki on hot summer nights and we have already discovered that we are teased with tantalising aromas when the wind blows from that direction.

The view from the new cantina.  That is the Pedi Valley and Pedi Bay on the right.  On the left you can see over the ridge towards Nimborio bay and Nimos island.

Book your accommodation with us at Symi Visitor Accommodation and you will receive a totally personalised service.  All your questions are answered and your needs are taken into account when we make your booking.  

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Good bye September! Hello October!

Celestyal Cruises called into Symi on Wednesday afternoon.  With the current uncertainty regarding Turkey and Egypt as cruise ship destinations, Greece in general and Symi in particular are seeing a lot more cruise ships.  They only stay a few hours and it is good publicity for Symi.

Salamis Filoxenia from Cyprus is another cruise ship that is a frequent visitor to Symi.  In this case, however, the passengers are not in pursuit of hedonistic pleasures  and all inclusive banquets but are predominantly Greek Orthodox Cypriots visiting the main religious sites in the Dodecanese.   As Symi is home to 3 well known monasteries dedicated to St Michael, the chief of which is Panormitis,  Symi is a place of pilgrimage.  

The  colourful scene from the Symi Visitor Accommodation office balcony on Thursday morning.  As you can see, the fishing caiques are moving back into the head of the harbour now that the summer excursion boats are heading for the boat yards.

Just in case you hadn't noticed them in the previous photo, I zoomed in on the pigeons to bring them to your attention.  I don't know who is feeding them but this is a new phenomenon  Perhaps the pigeons have taken over from the lonesome duck of previous years. They certainly look fat enough.

Smiling down serenely from a pediment on the Kali Strata.

There is no way of escaping steps on Symi. This is idiosyncratic collection of random flights connects Villa Papanikola, just visible with the cream paintwork and dark blue shutters, with the mid section of the Kali Strata. The piecemeal nature of such routes is because each property owner built his own access steps when he built his house.

This flourishing fig tree must have its roots in the cistern of this ruined mansion on the Kali Strata. As Symi has no rivers, lakes or streams to provide a water supply, every house has a cistern.  Originally used to harvest rainwater from the roof in the winter, these days most houses get top ups from the municipality with varying degrees of frequency during the summer.  There are very few places where there is a continuous water supply and most neighbourhoods only receive water for a few hours a week.  Cisterns, pumps and water shortages are a fact of life here

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Small but Perfect

 The heat wave continues and the Hellenic National Meteorological Service says that this is one of the hottest summers on record. Temperatures are supposed to drop in northern and central Greece this weekend, with plenty of thunderstorms to break the heat but it will take a while for any change in the weather to affect Symi so far south. 

Purists may despise the Symi train as an affront to the island’s aesthetic, but the local children just love it.  Every evening one sees young families, children bright eyed and eager, boarding the train for the trip around Harani to the hill above Nimborio and back again.  In a small place that offers few amusements for young families and where many parents are working long hours in tourist related jobs and cannot take time off to take the children to the beach every day, a 40 minute train ride is an exciting adventure before bed time.  In many ways Symi seems like toyland with its small but perfect houses and bright white churches gleaming on the hills.  Perhaps a toy train is not so out of place after all.

A Cypriot cruise ship, the Salamis Filoxenia, paid Symi a visit yesterday morning.  In previous years we used to have two visits a week from Cypriot cruise ships as well as weekly visits from Seabourne Odyssey and more random ones from various boutique cruise ships such as Hebridean Spirit and Mayan Queen.  According to recent newspaper reports we may see more cruise ships in these waters in 2013.  We certainly hope so.  One of the reasons why the Michalaki was moved from the clock tower to outside Pachos two years ago was to widen the harbour at the clock tower to facilitate cruise ship docking.

On a more serious note, anyone who is travelling in Greece in the next fortnight is strongly advised to prebook all ferry tickets.  Even in a recession the boats are very full this time of the year and we are already hearing sad stories of people being left on the dock in Rhodes because they did not book their tickets in time.  The websites are www.anes.gr www.12ne.gr/en and www.bluestarferries.gr

Have a good weekend.

Regards,

Adriana

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