Sparkling Sunshine

The view from the Symi Visitor Accommodation office is very different in November.  No tourists in beachwear, just locals in paint-spattered overalls.

The Blue Star Diagoras coming in this morning - about half an hour late but no torrential rain to contend with, unlike this time last week.

Manos' well known seafood taverna, firmly packed up and closed for the winter.  

Even the sponge sellers and the leather shop are all shuttered for the winter.

The building above Pachos, next to the Sunflower laundry and our Symi Visitor Accommodation office is still in the throes of a make-over.  Do you see how the rocky hillside above the town is starting to turn green?

 A Chorio cat, snoozing in a sunny doorway.

This one prefers a little elevation although that contraption does not look very comfortable.

The Agia Marina river has carved out a new bed.   That diagonal across the foreground with the large white rock is the edge of a drop of about 3 metres.  Note the black plastic water pipe dangling across the gully - that was lying on the ground before the flood.

It is a bright clear autumn day on the small island of Symi.  A brisk breeze is blowing from the north, giving us exceptional visibility and the sort of sparkling sunshine we seldom see in the hazy months of summer.  The temperature is about 19 degrees centigrade but if you can find a sunny spot out of the wind it is much warmer than that.  These conditions are expected to prevail for the next few days.

Next Friday's Blue Star ferry has been cancelled due to a general strike on Thursday which is preventing her sailing.  This means that the only car ferry next week is on Wednesday and there won't be any means of getting to Rhodes between Wednesday morning and Saturday evening when Dodecanese Seaways stops off in Symi on the way back from Kos.

Have a good weekend.



The Quiet Life

Definitely closed until next summer!  Boarded up shops secured with plastic sheeting are a common sight around Yialos at this time of the year.  Will the last one out please nail down the plastic?

The usually pristine waters of Pedi bay, full of mud and debris on Friday afternoon after the storm.

Pedi bay after the downpour.

Symi autumn colours.

Monday morning and all is quiet.

Weeds growing on the Kali Strata, wherever they can find a scrap of soil.

Yialos, looking very closed.

When this building was restored on the Kali Strata, someone added a few whimsical blue mosaic tiles in the wet grouting.  Look out for them the next time you climbing the steps - little details like this make a good excuse to stop to catch your breath.
The clean up continues after Friday's storm. My rainwater gauge overflowed when it got to 60 mm so I can't tell you exactly how much rain fell on Friday morning. The next rain is expected to reach us on Wednesday night but should not be as severe.  Temperatures are continuing to drop steadily now and by the end of the week we will be looking at highs of 18 degrees and lows around 10 degrees centigrade.  As everything is waterlogged there is a damp chill in the air and it is very misty.

It is quite noisy down in the harbour at the moment as the building housing Pacho's kafeneion is having a revamp.  We had several weeks of jack-hammering while all the leaky galvanised pipes were removed and replaced with plastic.  Now we have the hum of several orbital sanders as all the doors and shutters are off and are being sanded down across the road, on the pavement where in the summer the water taxis have their ticket booths.

Only the essential shops are still open. The others are closed up with plastic sheeting and storm shutters.  Spacephone Symi, the mobile phone shop where we also go to pay our bills is closed until 26 November as the family is on holiday.  Many locals take a short holiday now, after the stresses of the summer and then settle down to the quiet life of Symi in the winter so some businesses that are closed now may reopen for a few weeks in the run up to Christmas.

Have a good week.



About this Blog

I sailed into Panormitis Bay, Symi, by chance one windy July day in 1993 and have been here ever since. The locals tell me that this is one of the miracles of St Michael of Panormitis. A BA graduate with majors in English, Philosophy and Classical Civilisation, the idea of living in what is to all intents and purposes an archaeological site appeals to me. Not as small as Kastellorizo, not as touristy as Rhodes, Symi is just the right size. I live on a small holding which my husband and I have reclaimed from a ruin of over-grazing and neglect and turned into a small oasis over the course of the past 16 years. I also work part-time for Symi Visitor Accommodation, helping independent travellers discover and enjoy Symi's simple pleasures for themselves.

Adriana Shum

Copyright (c) 2001-2014 Adriana Shum.

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