Celebrity Chefs and Cloudbursts - Late October on Symi

The water taxis will soon be hauled out of the water for the winter.  In the meantime the owners have started wrapping up the seats etcetera in black plastic bags.  I took this photograph on Wednesday, when the light was bright and sparkling and the clouds had not caught up with us yet.

Not much activity in Pachos this morning.  The roads are wet from overnight rain.

A rain-streaked sunrise at 8 a.m. in Yialos.  

A new construction on the waterfront in Yialos.  It is being painstakingly built with dressed local stone.  As Symi's architecture is protected all new buildings have to blend in with the old.  This will be a splendid structure when it is complete.

Pigeons being fed on the quay near the clock tower.  I'm not sure if the train is coming or going but there aren't many takers for rides around the harbour now that the weather has changed and the tourists have faded away.  That is the Blue Star Diagoras in the background, en route from Piraeus to Rhodes and Kastellorizon.  She was waiting for the ambulance to arrive as there was a medical emergency to be transferred to Rhodes.  The Diagoras will pass through Symi again this evening on her reciprocal route.

Most of the yachts now are cruising folk waiting for the end of the month when they go to wherever they are over-wintering, often in marinas and boatyards along the Turkish coast.

A peaceful scene in Yialos, Symi.

An elegant black cat by the bridge in Yialos.

Yes, it is true that celebrity chef, Rick Stein is on Symi at the moment, filming for his latest cookery programme about Mediterranean cuisine in one of our properties,  Symi Visitor Accommodation has been in tentative negotiations to arrange a book signing before he leaves the island next week.  We will know more once he is closer to completing filming and there is a clearer idea of when he might have time available in his schedule.  Once we have firmer details we'll put them up, here and on our Symi Visitor Accommodation Facebook page.

We have had a few showers but so far the heavy downpours expected have passed either to the north or the south of Symi and it has been far wetter on Rhodes than has been the case here.  The weather is expected to improve in time for the Ochi Day parade on Tuesday and then closing in again with more rain and unsettled conditions expected next week too.

There are very few visitors staying on the island now and although the 'Symi' day excursion boat is in from Rhodes, the streets are deserted.  Just a few small huddled groups in the cafes along the front, wondering if it will rain again.  Those shops that are still open are having big end of season sales as it makes sense to try and get rid of stock rather than pack it away in what may well be damp storage until April so there is many a bargain to be had if you are looking for beachwear.  Finding more appropriate clothing for the changing season is more of a challenge and we have to go to Rhodes for practical winter wear unless a passing gypsy hawker has what we need.

The bus came back from Rhodes on the Blue Star on Wednesday afternoon so normal service has resumed, much to the relief of everyone who lives up and works down or has to commute between Pedi and Yialos.

Have a warm dry weekend.



Amazing Visibility

7.30 in the morning and the sun is only just catching the houses on the Kastro.

Light and shade on the Milos.

The weekend's winds have blown the haze away and visibility is wonderful.  This is a shot of the village Wendy, Barry, Sue and Mike walked up to last weekend, above the top of Pedi bay, photographed from the roof of my house at the top of the Pedi valley, several kilometres away, using a not very sophisticated camera.

Two kittens heading up the Kali Strata.  

The Dodecanese Seaways catamaran coming into Yialos this morning.  Yes, the sea really is that blue today!

It's never too late in the season for fouled anchors in Yialos.
Strong winds came out of nowhere at the weekend causing minor ferry disruptions and bringing a sharp drop in temperatures and amazing visibility.  The weather remains unsettled and there is the possibility of thunderstorms and rain later in the week.  The weather forecasts at this time of the year are not very reliable as fronts come through quickly and can pass to the north or the south of us or straight over us and the clash between the cold air coming down from Europe and Russia and the warm air from North Africa spawn storms too.

The Symi bus is still out of commission and is in Rhodes, awaiting repair.  Fortunately it is a bit cooler now so having to toil up the Kali Strata is not as much of a chore as it would be during the summer months.

The Symi and Nikolaos day trip boats from Rhodes are still coming over on a daily basis although there are fewer people about.  The tourist shops around Yialos are starting to pack up or are only open for a few hours a day when the boats are in as it is not worth sitting about for hours when there is not a soul to be seen.  In another 10 days the only places open will be the essential ones used by the locals for the winter. Symi is slipping into sleepy off season mode.

Have a good week.



About this Blog

I sailed into Panormitis Bay, Symi, by chance one windy July day in 1993 and have been here ever since. The locals tell me that this is one of the miracles of St Michael of Panormitis. A BA graduate with majors in English, Philosophy and Classical Civilisation, the idea of living in what is to all intents and purposes an archaeological site appeals to me. Not as small as Kastellorizo, not as touristy as Rhodes, Symi is just the right size. I live on a small holding which my husband and I have reclaimed from a ruin of over-grazing and neglect and turned into a small oasis over the course of the past 16 years. I also work part-time for Symi Visitor Accommodation, helping independent travellers discover and enjoy Symi's simple pleasures for themselves.

Adriana Shum

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