An Interesting Week Ahead

Saturday morning in Yialos and the water ship was over from Rhodes, pumping water up to the reservoirs that serve Harani and Mavrovouni, the area at the back of Yialos. The crowd on the quay outside the police station are tourists that have just come across from Rhodes on the Panagia Skiadeni.

When I first came to Symi there were lots of hawkers and gypsy vans, selling everything from live poultry chicks, garden furniture and plants to clothes and shoes.  I spotted this one in Chorio on Saturday morning, selling practical clothes.

He also had a fine display of trainers and other cheap but serviceable footwear.

Down in the harbour on Monday morning it was very much business as usual, even if the banks are closed for a week.  Staff were setting tables for the lunchtime trade from Rhodes.

No shortage of fresh produce to choose from, even several hours before the Panagia Skiadeni was due in with fresh supplies.

The organic Greek speciality food shop has started selling postcards.  They are all quite old photographs of Symi and are quite fun to look at, to compare with how Symi looks today.  Some of the photographs of Harani in particular show an amazing difference in the number of buildings over the past 20 years, although at first glance you would not realise it as all new buildings on Symi have to blend in with the old ones.

9 a.m. and getting ready for the new day.

The schools are closed now for the summer holidays.  I spotted these two local lads playing backgammon in the shade of a vine at an ouzerie (a small traditional cafe bar that sells ouzo and mezzes) near our office.

Looking back up the same lane from the sea towards St John's church and the Albatros hotel.

Most of the buildings in the harbour area have been rebuilt in recent years but this roofless ruin just round the corner from our office has probably been in this condition since the Second World War. The owners are probably in Australia, or America or any one of a number of countries to which Symiots have emigrated over the past century or so.

Excursion boats and posh yachts in Yialos at 13.00 today.  The water taxis are out, taking people to the beaches.  A typical bright sunny summer's day on the small Greek island of Symi.

First of all, here is some news to reassure travellers to Greece this week:  Foreigners and tourists can make withdrawals and use their cards as usual. Most businesses, however, would prefer to be paid in cash as they may have difficulties in withdrawing funds from their business bank accounts to pay staff and tradesmen so cash is king to keep liquidity flowing.  We have heard that the ATMs on Symi have already reopened and while withdrawals for locals are limited to the new 60 euros cap, foreigners have no problem with making withdrawals as usual.

The anticipated ferry strike this week has been cancelled to enable Greeks to travel freely to vote in the referendum on Sunday 5 July.  This means that the Blue Star Diagoras should be leaving Akandia harbour in Rhodes as usual at 15.00 on Wednesday.

We have an interesting week ahead.  If you want to get a Greek perspective, http://www.ekathimerini.com/ekathi/news is a good place to go and their website is updated several times a day, as news breaks.

Have a good week.

Regards,
Adriana

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Postcards from Symi in June

The Salamis Filoxenia from Cyprus spent the morning in Yialos on Tuesday, bringing many visitors to the island, particularly pilgrims coming to visit Symi's famous monasteries at Panormitis and Roukonioutis.

The motor yachts are getting bigger - this one has a jacuzzi on the foredeck.

The same yacht, pulling out of Yialos an hour or so later.

Yachts and water taxis setting off with the Panagia Skiadeni ferry in the background. 

A Greek flag flying off a hilltop in Yialos.  

Shady benches beside the town square in Yialos.

One of the two access routes to the Kali Strata when approaching from the bottom.  

Symi is very steep and very few houses in the harbour area have vehicle access.  Most can only be reached through a network of steep steps with short narrow lanes running along the fronts of the houses.  As the houses were built without any mechanical assistance and all materials had to be transported by donkey - a situation that has changed very little which is why restoration is so expensive - the houses tend to be quite small and every inch of vertical space is used.  Sleeping lofts (moussandras) and wooden mezzanines make best use of space and the interiors are in many ways reminiscent of boats, with ladder staircases to save space.  You won't find lots of bedrooms in the old neo-classical town houses and the islanders are accustomed to living without much personal space.

Looking down the Kali Strata steps from the top, outside the Olive Tree cafe and Giorgio's taverna in Chorio.  That is a mule train lower down on the steps, taking building materials down to a house that is being restored and that does not have vehicle access.  Chorio is not quite as steep as Yialos so steps are shallower and there are more flat bits in between.

It was very windy yesterday and the anchorage in Pedi was quite full.  Large yachts and gulets often anchor there during the day, waiting for the ferries and excursion boats to depart from Yialos before going round to find a berth for the night.

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Vanilla and Orange Flower Water

A floral welcome in Yialos.

The tin smith in Yialos with his handmade wares on display outside.

Plenty of fresh fruit and vegetables for sale in the lanes of Yialos and Chorio.

As usual, we are seeing all sorts of boats, from beautiful old wooden ones like the one heading out in front of the yellow speed boat to the chunky battle-ship inspired grey power yacht in the middle. This was the 8 a.m. rush hour departing!

No where on Symi is very far from anywhere else.  That is part of Chorio on the left and Pedi bay on the right.  It takes about 20 minutes to walk from the point where I was standing to take this photograph, around the head of the valley and down the motor road on the opposite side of the valley, which is marked by the edge of the trees, to the sea in Pedi.  There more direct old footpaths running through the valley but as they are fairly rough in places it can actually take longer going that way.

Afternoon storm clouds building up over Turkey. As the weather heats up we have had some splendid stormy skies, although the rain always seems to fall over Turkey rather than Symi.

This is the clinic in Yialos, adjoining St John's church. The buildings on the left are basic pensions.

Faces are a popular motif on the neo-classical buildings. This enigmatic face contemplates the view from a restored merchant house on the Kali Strata steps.

Perhaps she is wondering what to say to the gentleman on the facade next door.

It is a bright sunny day on Symi. The thermometer is hovering around 36 degrees centigrade.  The Symi, Panagia Skiadeni and Nikolaos X are tied up in the harbour and there are tourists browsing around, looking in shops and eating ice creams.  The patisserie round the corner is scenting the air with vanilla and orange flower water - the delicate aromas of traditional boutgatsa and baklava.

I was in the National Bank (Ethniki) this morning early as I needed to do some personal banking. There were two other customers apart from myself, one of whom was just leaving. There was no problem with my making a modest international bank transfer so no sign of capital controls kicking in just yet. There was someone else outside, using the ATM.  The weekly money supply has just arrived in an armoured delivery off the Panagia Skiadeni from Rhodes so the bank has been topped up with fresh cash supplies.  Business as usual, despite what the overseas press may be saying.

The island is getting busier, particularly with yachtsmen and gulets in the evenings and early mornings.  The restaurants and tavernas are seeing more traffic and it is becoming important to book a table at the more popular venues, particularly as there are lots of regular visitors to Symi on the island at the moment and they have their favourite locations.  There is a quiet hum of activity that is absent in the winter.

Have a good week.

Regards,
Adriana

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Symi Kaleidoscope

A peaceful early morning scene in Yialos.

Excursion boats, yachts and gulets in Yialos.

Untangling anchors 

The line up of water taxis and excursion boats in front of the Sunflower laundry and Symi Visitor Accommodation.

The Poseidon excursion boat sets off on another round the island trip.

There's always something to see from the balcony.

Reminding climbers not to lose heart - the herb and coffee shop higher up the Kali Strata steps has resorted to advertising at the bend on the Kali Strata. Other rewards for perseverance include cafes, bars, boutiques, supermakets, tavernas, a butchery, two bakers - it is not immediately obvious to newcomers approaching from below but Chorio is actually the old town, the main area of habitation, and there is a whole town up there!

One of my neighbours.

Gulets on Thursday morning.

The Blue Star Paros on Friday morning.

I have lived on Symi for 20 years, and have been blogging Symi since March 2001 so I have seen many changes - but I have also seen all the things that haven't changed.  The hospitality and friendliness of the people. The beauty of the scenery. The charming architecture. The elements of the unexpected.  I have walked the same route to work for 15 years and yet there is always something new to notice, some detail that catches the eye. We stopped here by chance in 1993 and the island felt just right.  Not too big, not too small.  A perfect fit.  A bit like when you go shopping for shoes and say to the assistant, these are so comfortable I think I'll keep them on.''  So we stayed and made our home here.  I look forward to sharing Symi's delights with you for many years to come.

Have a good weekend.

Regards,
Adriana

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Sparkling in the Morning Sun

Pedi bay sparkling in the early morning sun, as seen from a wayside chapel at the top of the Pedi valley, in the Lieni area of Chorio.

The bougainvilleas are in full bloom now and visible for miles.  Here is one, glowing magenta on a farmers cottage in the Pedi valley.  The silvery leafed trees are olives and the dark green ones are kermes oaks (holly oaks).

Another wayside chapel in Lieni.  Symi has many such small churches, often with little houses attached, privately built to fulfill a family vow.  

It is not just the bougainvilleas that are luminous at the moment - this morning glory is lighting up an old garden at the top of the Kali Strata.

We are nearing the Feast of St John and the St John's wort is flowering to schedule.

My eye was initially drawn by the tabby cat against the white background.  His own eye, however, is firmly fixed on the two cats in the vine overhead which I did not spot until I stopped to take the photograph.

One of the traditional tavernas on Symi, ready for the new day's customers.  Taverna owners are punctilious about cleaning up when the last customer leaves late at night so that everything is fresh and clean to start the new day.   

I had to go round to Krystallo, the housewares shop on the town square this morning, on an errand to buy something for one of our houses, and spotted the resident mouser snoozing on a pile of new outdoor chairs.  The kiddy chair no doubt provides necessary shade when the sun shifts.  Many Symi businesses have cats in residence who are fed by the proprietors and expected to pull their weight by keeping the mice under control.

The pomegranates are particularly good this year.  One advantage of having a car ferry coming over from Rhodes every day is that there is a steady supply of fresh produce available on the island, not just twice a week on the Blue Star as has been the case in recent years.

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