Whistling Around the Windmills

Brrr. A cold north easterly wind is bouncing off the hills and whistling around the windmills. It is about 10 degrees on Symi this morning and feels much colder as the wind has been blowing since last night. The power cuts have continued all week and yesterday most of the island was without electricity from early in the morning until late in the evening. Chorio looked quite pretty in the dark, with only flickering gas lamps visible and the lights of the odd passing car illuminating the roads. It was, however, a chilly experience for those who did not have alternative methods of heating and cooking.

When I first came to Symi back in 1993 power cuts were a frequent occurrence, particularly in the winter months when the rain caused short circuits and the wind blew down power lines. Indeed, it was not uncommon for the first rains in October to be marked by an immediate blackout. But as most people were still cooking on bottled gas in those days and using gas or paraffin heaters or wood stoves, the lack of electricity wasn’t as disruptive to everyday life. The shops had little gas lamps ready for use in the frequent blackouts and there were fewer display fridges and freezers to worry about – those were the days when fresh milk came straight from the cow or not at all and there was little in the grocer’s freezer apart from frozen French and Danish battery chickens. Now Symi’s demand for better infrastructure and a better quality of life, not just for the summertime visitors but also the Symiots themselves, means constant upgrades to the island’s power supply and thus more power cuts while these are implemented. Full size electric cookers and air conditioning have become standard in recent years and the demands on Symi’s little power station on the Pedi road are high. We have not seen the last of the intrepid men from the Public Power Corporation with their cranes and crampons for scaling poles and pylons.

The long range weather forecast remains unsettled with wind and rain expected over the weekend as the low pressure system currently over Italy and the Ionian tracks eastwards. There is another front following close behind it, currently over Spain and Portugal, which will bring us strong winds later in the week. This is a normal pattern of weather for this time of the year as rainy spells alternate with strong winds and bright sunshine.

ANES has now released the ferry schedules up to the end of January 2009 which will help a lot of Symiots and visitors finalise their festive season travel plans. More details can be found on www.symivisitor.com/greek-ferry.htm.

Have a good weekend.

Regards,
Adriana

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Light the Fire

A wet weekend has turned into a rainy Monday and according to the satellite picture there is more unsettled weather heading our way for the rest of the week. So far we have been spared the destructive torrential rains that can be a feature of the rainy season in Symi and it has been steady soaking rain, the kind much beloved by farmers as it sets the seeds in the ground rather than washing them to the bottom of Pedi bay. One advantage of the heavy cloud cover and southerly winds is that it is still quite warm here on Symi with temperatures around 18 degrees and the anticipated drop has not hit us yet.

It is very quiet down in Yialos with not much movement apart from fishermen in oilskins bailing out boats. Symi Visitor webcam watchers will have noticed muffled figures squelching past at intervals, clutching pumps and buckets. A small fleet of Italian fishing boats sheltered in Symi on Saturday to ride out the south westerly gale that was pounding in the Aegean and eastern Mediterranean. See http://www.flickr.com/photos/31249607@N08/3050498258/ for a photograph of two of the boats – the third was alongside the clock tower.

The Symi municipality has switched on the ‘barber pole’ Christmas lights which look quite pretty in the evening drizzle. There is no sign of any of the other municipal decorations yet but the Public Power Corporation is still busy putting up poles so this may well be a last minute thing. A large pole is scheduled to replace the existing one outside the Village Hotel in Chorio. It is lying on crates in the Chorio shortcut at the moment, surrounded by hazard tape as the workers wait for the weather to improve before they haul it into position.

Speaking of Christmas, some of the shops down in Yialos have now received their holiday stock in the form of tinsel, glass baubles and felt Xmas stockings and one of the better known souvenir shops has reinvented itself as a toy shop. At the moment, however, local shopping trends are veering more towards Wellington boots, umbrellas and plastic sheeting by the metre rather than festive frivolities. The Symi Flower Shop is a cheerful sight as this is, of course, the time to be planting things and they have lots of young fruit trees and shrubs in stock as well as bright pot plants for the horticulturally challenged.

Have a good week. I am going home to light the fire and steam Christmas puddings as it is too wet to be picking olives.

Regards,
Adriana

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Simple Pleasures


It is a bright clear day on Symi with that sparkling clarity of light that comes with cold winter air. The temperature is around 15 degrees centigrade in the sun and unlikely to climb much higher. Greece is bracing itself for a massive cold front which is expected to hit in the next 24 hours, bringing snow on the high ground, rain and thunderstorms everywhere else and a Force 9 gale in the Aegean. The forthcoming storm has been anticipated all week and is likely to be the first ‘big one’ of the season. Scenes of snow ploughs in Larissa and flooded basements in Athens will probably drive political scandals off Greek television for a few days. Visitors to the Symi Visitor website will be able to watch the storm unfold on our webcams – but snow at sea level on Symi is unlikely to be on the cards. The last time it snowed on Symi was in 2004 and you can see pictures of this on http://www.symivisitor.com/outjanuary2004.htm. Nostalgia buffs may enjoy scrolling down that page for a few familiar faces!

ANES has now put up the December ferry schedules on their website which you can find by clicking onto the link from our homepage http://www.symivisitor.com//greek-ferry.htm. Dodecanese Seaways, however, have yet to release theirs.

Christmas is little more than a month away now, but Symi remains refreshingly free of commercial exhortations to shop and be jolly. Christmas is a low key event in Greece and although larger centres such as Rhodes may be putting up tinsel in the shop windows, here on Symi the first chocolate Santa has yet to put in an appearance. Instead there are plenty of returnees, people who work elsewhere in the summer and spend their winters living here on Symi. The coffee shops are busy with chatter as summer stories are exchanged and plans made for social gatherings. Symi in the winter is a place for those who are adept at making their own entertainment and enjoy the simple pleasures in life, whether it be cooking dinner for friends, curling up with a good book or heading for the hills with a camera or sketch pad.

Have a good weekend. I am going home to make sure everything is tied down and snug for the deluge to come.

Regards,
Adriana

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Comfort Food

A large area of low pressure is moving slowing across Greece from Italy and the barometer has been dropping steadily since last night. The first rain is expected to reach the Dodecanese and Symi sometime during Monday night and the long range forecast shows rain in various quantities for the whole of Greece for the rest of the week, along with a significant drop in temperatures . As this will be the first proper rain since early October we can’t really complain. The weather this autumn has been unusually fine and up to now most of us have still been wearing mainly summer weight clothes in the day time. Thank you very much for the hot water bottles I have received from visitors this summer – I think we are probably about to put them to use this week!

Down in Yialos the Symiots are making preparations for the forthcoming stormy weather.(See webcams on http://www.symivisitor.com/webcam.shtml.) Most of the fishing boats are now on winter lines, much further away from the quay and with extra anchors and warps in place so that they can cope with any amount of surge without harm. Several of the water taxis have already been lifted out of the water for the winter. Although Symi is sheltered from the worst of the Aegean winter gales by the protective peninsulars of neighbouring Asia Minor, when storms do hit us they can be quite vicious and destructive, as regular visitors to this page over the years will be aware.

With so many of the businesses in Yialos now closed until the beginning of the tourist season in the spring, the main life on the island tends to be focused up in Chorio where the majority of the Symiots live. The supermarkets are stocking up with winter staples – sacks of lentils, beans and chickpeas and the pressure cookers in which to prepare them. The smell of bay leaves, cinnamon, celery and chicken broth haunts the lanes of Chorio as dozens of extractor fans broadcast traditional island fare to passersby. Bread, pulses, olives and vegetables from the family plot have been the back-bone of the island’s winter diet since the beginning of time, comfort food indeed.

Speaking of comfort food, the island’s cat population is fluffing out in response to the cooler temperatures and those who live outdoors are growing fine winter coats. This is, of course, helped by regular feeding from Symi Animal Welfare’s winter feeding program and sympathetically inclined Symiots who are also feeding their neighbourhood cats on an informal basis. Faros, another animal welfare organisation on Symi, has organised a vet visit from 28-30 November 2008. This will take place on Mavrovouni and anyone who is on the island at the time and would like to help should look out for the posters which will be appearing around the town shortly.

For more information about how you can help Symi Animal Welfare help the cats of Symi make it through the winter, go to their noticeboard which you will find on the Symi Visitor Forum at http://symivisitor.forumco.com/.

Have a good week.

Regards,
Adriana

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Some Wonderful Stuff


It is a cool and cloudy autumnal day on Symi with the thermometer still at 18 degrees at midmorning. The weather is expected to remain calm but chilly for the next few days with the possibility of rain early next week as the depression which is currently pounding Italy and the Balkans slowly drifts eastwards. Very little came out of Wednesday’s showers apart from a significant drop in temperatures and it is almost cold out of the sun. Definitely time to switch from iced frappes to hot coffee!

Up in Chorio a few lingering hawkers are still forlornly peddling toys and cheap Chinese tools left over from last weekend’s Panormitis festival. The Symiot housewives seemed to be more interested in the truck next door, however, which was selling cauliflowers, potatoes and some impressive loose-headed cabbages, perfect for lahanodolmades. At this time of the year the vegetable hawkers that come over from the market in Rhodes have some wonderful stuff and it is difficult to avoid buying far more than one can conceivably eat before it deteriorates, just because it all looks so splendid. Although we can now buy mangoes and avocadoes in Symiot supermarkets more or less any old time, fresh produce on Symi is still predominantly seasonal and arrives cheerfully naked in crates with mud still clinging here and there. While the Eurocrats may have finally realized that legislating against crooked carrots is daft, the Greeks have been eating their fruit and vegetables as nature made them for years.

Down in the harbour the main focal point is the yellow no-parking lines which are creeping round the waterfront, carefully painted by two municipal employees under the watchful gaze of the locals. The blitz on parking offences has turned into a continuous patrol and the issuing of pink parking tickets. The double yellow lines all round the quay ensure that no one can now plead ignorance. The main issue now, of course, is where do people park their cars and bikes instead? A problem which the town hall is going to have to address with some alacrity as parking in Yialos is in short supply at the best of times and the town square is home to some vehicles that haven’t moved for years. And, at this time of the year, small boats are traditionally pulled up the customs slipway and tethered to the oleanders in the square (a precaution taken ever since the flood in December 1999 when some of them floated back into the sea!) for winter maintenance. There could be some interesting arguments ahead!

Fortunately all this is taking place well in advance of the 2009 tourist season so a solution will no doubt have been found by the time the first visitors arrive in the spring. Certainly it will have the effect of discouraging visitors as well as locals from bringing vehicles into the harbour area and that means a more pedestrian-friendly environment for everyone.

Have a peaceful weekend.

Regards,
Adriana

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Mid-Week Update

Well, the deed is done, the papers are signed, the photos are on the Symi Visitor website http://www.symivisitor.com/ and the delegates are on their way back so what happens next?
Read the Symi Visitor newspaper http://www.symivisitor.com/newspaper.htm for the full story and more details about the benefits to Symi of the Sister City project between Symi, Greece and Tarpon Springs, Florida.

Meanwhile, back on Symi, we had a brief shower at daybreak and some welcome rain is forecast for the next 24 hours. The power is off today on the north side of the harbour as the Public Power Corporation is still hard at work on the upgrades to the island’s electricity network so the Alpha Bank, the post office and the Armara supermarket are only able to provide limited services.

Off to plant broad beans in the rain!

Have a good week.

Regards,
Adriana

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Stretching in the Sun



Visitors who have only ever seen Symi in the height of the summer season may find it difficult to imagine Yialos totally deserted, a veritable ghost town, but that is how it was on Panormitis Day, Saturday 8 November. With most of the island’s population at Panormitis (see Out and About photographs) and the rest celebrating the Feast of Saint Michael at Roukouniotis and Kokkimidis (the two other major monasteries dedicated to Michael the Archangel), the only movement in the streets and lanes of Yialos and Chorio was the occasional sleepy cat, stretching in the sun.

Sunday, on the other hand, was quite the opposite as the multitudes departed in the ferries, caiques and speed boats plying the waters between Symi and Rhodes and various other Dodecanese islands. Now it is Monday morning and the island has slipped into its usual November mode. The usual groups of Symiot men are sipping coffee and solving the problems of their world at Pachos cafeneion downstairs. With the festival celebrations out of the way and the weather still perfect, fishing and messing about in boats are the order of the day and Dino, the chandler in the lane, has a steady stream of customers. It is time to think about improving anchors and warps for the winter storms and the rattling of chain as lengths are measured off and weighed punctuates the morning calm. The scent of vanilla and nutmeg on the air suggests that the Nikolas Patisserie behind the Symi Visitor Accommodation office is now baking galatoboureka, the Greek answer to custard pie. Another hour or so and the whiff of roasting meat will tell me that the gyros bar by the bridge is ready for lunch. Now that the need for air conditioning has passed and all our windows are open, every day life on Symi is as much an olfactory experience as a visual one!

Tourist shops are now closed for the season and it is only those businesses that supply the needs of the local residents that are still open. Taxas supermarket no longer stocks newspapers and magazines but the Press shop is still up and running, albeit with a more limited stock and, of course, as there are fewer boats, the daily papers are that bit older by the time they reach Symi. However, as time on Symi in the winter moves more languidly than it does elsewhere no one really minds reading day old newspapers.

Have a good week.

Regards,
Adriana

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Happy Sunshine

The exodus to Panormitis is well under way with a steady rumble of vehicles of all shapes and sizes heading across the island. The only people I passed in Chorio on my way to work this morning were those waiting for lifts up the mountain. Down in Symi harbour groups of Greek visitors were enjoying morning coffee at various cafes before setting off in the direction of Panormitis. The Panormitis Festival is a popular Orthodox event and visitors and pilgrims come to Symi from all over Greece to attend and witness the miracle.

In past years, before the motor road was completed, Panormitis bay was a colourful sight with caiques and boats from all other islands lying at anchor. Those who did not have accommodation at the monastery slept afloat. These days visitors are more likely to arrive on a ferry, stay at an hotel in Yialos or Chorio and then travel by road across the top of the island to Panormitis, taking in the spectacular scenery along the way.

The weather remains extraordinarily fine and the band of rain that is currently soaking Italy is likely to break up long before it reaches the Dodecanese. The sky is hazy as we have had heavy mist at night with low fluffy clouds wrapped around the Vigla and drenching dewfalls that soak anything left out overnight. The clouds burn away as the day warms up and it is still hot enough for beach enthusiasts to head to NOS, Nimborio or Pedi for a dip at midday. The sun disappears fairly quickly though – in my part of the Pedi valley we are in the shadow of the Vigla from about 2 p.m and the temperature drops quite fast after that. From 26 degrees to 16 in a matter of minutes. South facing properties which are fiercely hot in high summer bask in happy sunshine for at least another two hours – in the winter on Symi location really matters as the difference in microclimates is quite marked, hence the famous Symi sartorial style known as the ‘winter layered look’. We all dress in as many layers as an onion, expecting to peel off down to T-shirts at midday or when visiting the sunny side of the harbour or Chorio, and then pile the clothes back on again when traveling by motorbike or heading into the shade.

Have a peaceful weekend.

Regards,
Adriana

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Selling Their Wares


While France has been hit by floods and the Western Mediterranean is experiencing some seriously wintry weather, a high pressure system continues to dominate the Eastern Mediterranean. Temperatures have been higher than normal all over Greece recently and it is not quite time to pack away the summer clothes just yet.

The unseasonably mild weather is set to continue for a few more days but there is a small possibility of showers over the weekend – most unfortunate given that it is the Panormitis Festival on 7 and 8 November and pilgrims are already arriving in their droves. Hawkers and stall holders are also arriving, many of whom spend a few days selling their wares in Yialos and Chorio before going across to Panormitis Monastery for the main event. As it is traditional to have brooms blessed at Panormitis, sellers of brooms and other cleaning materials are a regular feature of the festival.

Speaking of Panormitis, the deputy mayor of Symi, Ilias Haskas and his wife, Emily, are off to Tarpon Springs this week to continue the negotiations for the Sister City project and to attend the Panormitis Day festivities organised by the Symiot community of Tarpon Springs. Other members of the delegation will include Nikos Halkitis, proprietor of the Symi Visitor newspaper, and his partner, Liz Moench Halkitis. Full coverage of this visit will be given in forthcoming editions of the Symi Visitor newspaper.

Have a peaceful week.

Regards,
Adriana

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About this Blog

I sailed into Panormitis Bay, Symi, by chance one windy July day in 1993 and have been here ever since. The locals tell me that this is one of the miracles of St Michael of Panormitis. A BA graduate with majors in English, Philosophy and Classical Civilisation, the idea of living in what is to all intents and purposes an archaeological site appeals to me. Not as small as Kastellorizo, not as touristy as Rhodes, Symi is just the right size. I live on a small holding which my husband and I have reclaimed from a ruin of over-grazing and neglect and turned into a small oasis over the course of the past 22 years. I also work part-time for Symi Visitor Accommodation, helping independent travellers discover and enjoy Symi's simple pleasures for themselves.

This page is kindly sponsored by Wendy Wilcox, Symi Visitor Accommodation.


Adriana Shum

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