A New Lease of Life



Symi is experiencing unusually wet conditions for the time of year and a cloudburst is sweeping across the island as I write this. Above the sound of pelting rain and the splatter of gutters I can hear the hubbub of many voices as daytrippers and locals alike take shelter in the cafeterias along the waterfront. It might be bad weather for Symi’s beach tavernas and water taxis but it is excellent weather for the cafes and shops in the harbour. The tourist shop downstairs, next to the Sunflower laundry, has moved all its display racks of holiday clothes further under the awnings or indoors. We seem to be getting a month’s worth of rain in a day at the moment! The Proteus is pulling out slowly in the deluge, heading for Panormitis monastery on its return trip to Rhodes. The island’s cisterns will be benefitting from this late, unexpected top up and many of the wild plants that had started to die back will have a new lease of life.


Storm over Yialos, captured by Nicholas Shum

The accompanying photograph was taken during a thunderstorm yesterday evening. The unusually unsettled weather is expected to clear with effect from late Tuesday evening so everything should be bright and sunny for Kate and Alastair’s wedding on Friday. Whether it will be dry for the Celtic Dancing at 08.30 p.m at the Manteio cafeteria in Chorio tomorrow evening remains to be seen. It has already been shifted from Saturday evening due to thundershowers on Saturday afternoon. Hence, no doubt, the origin of the expression, to take a rain check!  I shall put this up quickly as on Symi wet weather and power cuts often go hand in hand.


Pillion by Nicholas Shum

Have a good week.

Regards,
Adriana

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A Very Pretty Time on Symi


After a couple of days of overcast and humid weather, the edges of a dust storm blowing up from Libya, skies over Symi have returned to their familiar summertime blue. There is the possibility of thundershowers in the afternoons at the moment but these usually fall over the Turkish mainland or in the sea between Symi and Turkey at this time of the year and seldom sprinkle more than a few passing drops over Symi. Symi is considerably warmer than Rhodes and midday temperatures on the island are in the thirties.



In the Pedi Valley all the grass has been cut and baled for animal feed and the sheep and donkeys are doing a good job of grazing off what is left. There won’t be any fresh green stuff now until the rains start again in late October or early November. The great summertime drought starts about now. My neighbours all come round in the late afternoons to water their courgettes and tomatoes – it is too warm now to miss an evening. This is a very pretty time on Symi as the houses still look fresh from their Easter painting and although the wild flowers are fading away, those plants that are regularly watered by human intervention are flourishing in the lanes and alleyways. The pomegranate trees have started to flower, the oleanders are in full bloom and the grape vines and Virginia creepers are scrambling over pergolas and balustrades.


The Blue Star Diagoras on the trial trip on 6 May 2011

The latest news on the ferry front is that the Blue Star is now officially going to be stopping at Symi twice a week, on Tuesdays and Saturdays. The routes will give Symi some connections with Astypalia and Santorini, so opening up the options for island hopping in season. More information is available on the Blue Star website. Symi Tours in Yialos is their booking agent on Symi.  Meanwhile, more locally, after a few hiccups ANES has now issued a schedule for the Proteus that runs until the end of October. This will be running what is effectively a tourist service between Rhodes and Symi in that it always spends the night in Rhodes so there will be no morning departures from Symi or evening arrivals from Rhodes with ANES. The Symi II has been withdrawn from service for the foreseeable future.

Have a good weekend.

Regards,
Adriana

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Soaking Up Sunshine


Butterflies dancing around a haystack in the Pedi valley.

The first heatwave of the summer has arrived and Symi is soaking up sunshine. Temperatures are now well over 30 degrees at midday and the air is hazy with heat and dust. Evenings are warm and it is a relief to sit out of doors, enjoying the last of the light.


The Dodecanese Seaways catamaran on her maiden voyage to Datca.  Old hands will recognise the twin masts of the Poseidon over on the other side of the bay.


The Ultimate Cat - a marble replica of the Lion of Knidos looks on benignly.


I went to Datca on Saturday on the new Dodecanese Seaways catamaran service which is scheduled to run every Saturday during the season. Due to teething problems with the bureaucratic procedure the boat was very late leaving Symi which did not leave much time for shopping and sightseeing in Datca but presumably these problems will be ironed out with practice. The ferry was very full as it had been booked for a group excursion by the Politikos Syllogos Musulmanon Rhodes, in other words, by Rhodes’ not inconsiderable Turkish community. We were greeted with flower sellers, photographers and more bureaucracy at the Datca side and when the time came to depart, there was a small crowd of people waving good bye on the dock. When the group leader announced that there would be a similar excursion from Rhodes to Datca on 11 June a cheer went up.


This grape vine in Chorio is making a break for freedom.

The island is slowly opening up. With every day that passes there are more places open for business and the island is definitely getting busier. Nationalities we ourselves have hosted at Symi Visitor Accommodation recently include South African, British, Australian, Belgian, German, Turkish, French and American. Webcam watchers will have plenty to see as the number of yachts increases and there is more activity in the harbour in the evenings.

Have a good week.

Regards,
Adriana

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Sunshine All the Way


Dramatic skies over Symi


A quiet side lane off the Kali Strata

It is a sunny Symi Friday. A few thunderclouds are starting to build up over Turkey but nothing as dramatic as the electrical storm that growled around Symi for several hours yesterday afternoon, before depositing all its rain over the sea between Symi and Turkey. It is unlikely that we will have any significant rain between now and October but sometimes a cloud lingers over the Vigla and gives us the benefit of a 5 minute downpour or, more likely, a brief drizzle that evaporates before it reaches the ground. The long range forecast shows thundershowers over most of Greece and sunshine all the way for Symi and Rhodes.



Vines and oleanders on an alternate route to town from Chorio.


There are a lot more people around and the water taxis started operation today. A tribe of excited Greek children, armed with ice creams and evidently on a school day trip from Rhodes, is investigating the fishing boats below my window while a couple of more mature visitors relax on a bench and look at the sea. Yachts are starting to come in, looking for a good berth for the night, and the Tilos Seastar is alongside the quay next to the Clock Tower (Roloi). The air is sweet with the aroma of vanilla from the Nikolas Patisserie behind our office and the cafes and tavernas are bustling with visitors enjoying lunch while looking at the boats.


The restoration of this mansion on the Kali Strata is nearing completion.


This mansion, on the other hand, has a way to go.

Cyclamens grow in surprising places
 No human intervention could achieve that elegant arrangement of leaves.

In the last few days the season really does feel that it has begun. There is a hum of human activity and the clink of crockery and glasses from Pachos downstairs. Taxas supermarket is selling foreign language newspapers and magazines again and all the grocery shops have more diverse fare on offer than has been the case for many months.

Have a good weekend.

Regards,

Adriana

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Early Morning Calm


Temperatures rose sharply over the weekend and there is a definite feel of summer to the air.  In the Pedi Valley the oregano (rigani) is covered in white blossom which is, in turn, covered by numerous small copper coloured beetles.  It is the petals of these flowers, when dried, that are used to season everything from Greek village salad (choriatiki) to potato crisps.  The bushes have quite soft, tender leaves at this time of the year and wilt very quickly after cutting.  As the weather becomes drier this soft growth hardens and becomes twiggy and brown.  In a few weeks we will also see the small prickly purple cushions of wild thyme bushes dotting the hillsides above the road between Yialos and Chorio and on the hills above St Nicholas beach. Wild sage bushes are more common higher up the Vigla and on the plateau and they started flowering a month ago.

There is a charming wonkiness to Symi that is reflected in nature as well as in the wobbly symmetry of the architecture.  Walls undulate and poles lean in all directions.  Rooms in old houses seldom have right angle corners and is as though much of the island was built over the centuries 'by eye' rather than with any measuring tools.



Old houses lean in towards this lane leading to the Platia in Chorio, better known as Syllogos Square or Chorio Square and a popular venue for more intimate Symi Festival events.



The island of Nimos in the early morning calm, as seen from the top of the Kali Strata.
Nobody lives there. That is a small monastery, looked after by a family, but the only animate objects on Nimos for much of the year are goats and sheep for whom the steep slopes are
no challenge to grazing.


When I approach this corner of the Kali Strata on the walk to work I am always eager to see if there is anything new or unusual docked by the clock tower. Some mornings it is quiet and empty, as is the case this morning.  On other occasions there are glamorous yachts and cruise ships or flotillas of yachts. We may also be seeing with greater frequency than has been the case in recent months, our old friend the water boat.

An unfortunate recent reversal in the island’s infrastructure is that the desalination plant on the Pedi road caught fire one night last week and would appear to be irreparable. The whole casing is burned and sources say that the mechanics inside have melted. The cause would seem to have been a short circuit but the result is a return to the old system of water boats from Rhodes for the foreseeable future. We are all making sure that our cisterns are full as it is unlikely that central government is going to pop a replacement on the ferry from Piraeus any time soon. Regular visitors to Symi and those of us who have lived here for more than four or five years all remember ‘water days’, when the town supply was turned on to specific areas for a couple of hours each week so that we could receive our ration of water for the week. This went into the cistern of the house and had to last until the next ‘water day’. Then a continuous supply, but still based on water boats from Rhodes, was implemented which meant that when one opened a tap 90% of the time water came out but one never knew when the 10% that it didn’t was likely to occur. Well, hopefully we have gone back to the 90% state of affairs rather than the old ‘water days’ because in the meantime an awful lot of houses have done away with the cisterns and have nowhere to store a couple of tonnes of water from one week to the next.
Have a good week.

Regards,

Adriana

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Food for the Imagination


It is a bright sunny spring day on the small island of Symi in the Dodecanese. Day trippers are inspecting the racks outside the tourist shops for bargains and yachts of varying sizes and styles are rocking gently on the quay. Temperatures are pleasantly warm rather than searingly hot and it is still quite chilly in the shade. The water taxi boats are not in operation as the beach tavernas are not open yet but round in Harani the sunbeds at the Nireus Hotel and NOS Beach are seeing some use. It will be a while yet before the sea warms up but some hardy souls are already braving the waters. May is more of a month for hikers, walkers, photographers and painters rather than dedicated beach babes.





Despite a dry spring there are still a lot of flowers around and the gardens in Chorio are a wonderful sight. As there is so little arable land here Symiots have to create gardens among the rocks and make small stone terraces for planting hardy and drought resistant flowers. Courtyards usually have a lemon tree or a grape vine for shade. Old feta cheese and olive cans are often used as plant pots. Their straight sides make them fit neatly close together, shading each other’s roots and maximizing on space in a way that more curvaceous plant pots never can.




Many of the larger mansions are still closed up for the winter, waiting for summer owners from Athens or further afield to bring them to life in July and August. The rest of the year they guard their secrets behind sealed shutters and wrought iron gates, food for the imagination of those of us who pass by in the lanes. Apart from the Symi Dream Photography Walk on Sunday mornings which I mentioned in Monday’s blog there is also another guided walk in Chorio that will appeal to those who are curious about the island’s history and want to explore the labyrinth without fear of getting lost. This is run by Ian Haycox and takes place on Friday mornings from 09.00 to 13.30. For more details and to book please contact Symi Visitor Accommodation at symi-vis@otenet.gr

Have a good weekend.

Regards,
Adriana

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Get More Out of Your Holiday



It is a bright sunny day on Symi, Greece. The sky is the vivid blue of tourist brochures and the yachts in Yialos look clean and newly painted in the sunshine. A fringe of thunder clouds is building up on the horizon and a light wind is fluttering the flags left up from yesterday’s VE Day Parade. There are plenty of day trippers from Rhodes, mainly smartly dressed Eastern Europeans and Russians and mature British and Scandinavian tourists in sensible walking boots and sunhats. This may be in part due to a dramatic increase in the number of tourist arrivals in Rhodes in comparison to this time last year. The interesting thing about this article in the Athens News is that no mention whatever is made of how last year’s tourist figures were affected by the Iceland volcano eruption.


A regatta is expected in Symi harbour tonight and it is certainly ideal sailing weather at the moment. Enough of a breeze to be interesting but not so much that it is unpleasant. The long term forecast for Greece this week shows a fairly changeable picture with thunderstorms and possible heavy downpours mid week. In other words, fairly typical weather for this time of year. The weather in the Mediterranean does not really settle into its summer pattern until June and occasional showers are not uncommon in May. Down here in the south they seldom amount to much and often evaporate as they reach the ground so they have little beneficial effect on the plant life. They can, however, cover everything in a fine film of sand as these phenomena usually blow up out of Libya and it is not unheard of for ‘red rain’ and sandstorms to shut down Greek airports for a few hours. The Poseidon website http://www.poseidon.ncmr.gr/ is an interesting one to watch as it shows dust as well as cloud cover and rainfall.



In the Pedi valley the green is turning to gold as the shepherds cut the hay for their livestock and the daisies lose their lustre. Isolated clumps of poppies linger on in places where there is moisture but the cyclamens have virtually disappeared. The grass is setting seed and where it has not been cut it is often head height. The lupins are covered in furry seed pods and the sinister Dracunculis Vulgaris lurks in the shady places. The oregano bushes are in bud and will soon be covered in a haze of small white flowers. Pink bindweed and clematis tangle up the fences and the first tipsy hollyhocks are sending wobbly spires out of the stone walls.



Today’s photos are some that I took while on a Symi Dream photo walk in Chorio yesterday morning with Neil Gosling. If you want to learn some new tips and tricks and get more out of your holiday photos this is a well spent 2 hours on a Sunday morning. For more information see http://www.symidream.com/ or the poster outside the Sunflower Laundry.

Have a good week.

Regards,
Adriana

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A Week of Contrasts




Pedi Bay and surrounding hills on Wednesday 4 May

Weather wise it has been a week of contrasts on Symi with everything from blinding sunshine to dramatic rolling clouds. The whole region comprising Greece, the Balkans and Turkey is experiencing this unsettled and often thundery weather. Symi has not had anything by way of significant rain but the skies have been quite spectacular.



A sunny interval in the oldest part of Chorio.



This is why we refer to them as 'big boats'...

Another spectacle that occurred this week and owes more to human intervention than the divine was the appearance of the Blue Star Diagoras high speed ferry, on a test trip to see if it could dock in Yialos. As can be seen it was something of a tight fit but the mayor and various dignitaries came down to welcome the first ‘big boat’ to visit Symi since at least March. We hope that it will be able to make regular scheduled visits to Symi to relieve some of the transport problems that have occurred since ANES went into bankruptcy and the ANEK boat dropped the route. This is not the first time the Blue Star has tried to serve the route and we hope that it will be more successful the second time around.

This isn’t the only development on the ferry scene - Dodecanese Seaways has announced that with effect from 21 May it will be offering trips to Datca on Saturdays, filling the gap left by the Symi II which used to do this during the season. At 15 euros per person each way and with the journey only taking 15 minutes this is likely to be popular with everyone except the excursion boats that traditionally serve the route. However one must bear in mind that the fast connection gives less time in Datca for actually enjoying the market and so on, and it will free up seats on the excursion boats for those who want to make a day of it rather than travelling one way.


Flags in Yialos in the early morning sunshine.


Down in the harbour preparations are well under way for the VE Day Parade on Sunday and when I came down to work early this morning the municipal workers were using the island’s ‘cherry picker’ to hang bunting from the lamp posts along the head of the harbour and round to the War Memorial. If you are in Symi on Sunday remember to take your camera with you to Yialos. This parade is usually one of the most colourful on Symi’s calendar and includes a display of traditional costumes and dancing.

Have a good weekend.

Regards,
Adriana

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Warmer by the Day


A ewe and her lamb graze on daisies among the ruins in the top of Chorio
That is Pedi Bay in the background.

May Day passed in a flurry of sandy rain showers that turned the sky pink and grey over Southern Greece. This unsettled weather is typical of this time of the year as warm air from Africa meets cold air from Europe and we can expect more red rain and squalls before the summer heat arrives and the meltemi blows away the dust. Although the sky is hazy and visibility poor one advantage of this weather is that, as it comes from North Africa, temperatures are in the twenties so it is by no means cold and the sea grows warmer by the day. The water taxis should start operating in the next few weeks although the beach tavernas don’t usually start operating fully until June.



Dressed over all, this pair of British yachts were flying the flag
for the Royal Wedding on 29 April 2011

Symi is getting busier with day trip boats coming in every day from Rhodes. The Dodecanese Seaways and ANES are both doing day excursions from Rhodes, as is the Nikolaos X, so visitors can choose between a high speed catamaran, the Proteus car ferry or a purpose built excursion boat. We are also seeing more yachts as over-wintering boats clear out of Turkey and make Symi their first port of call for summer cruising in the Aegean.




It is traditional in Greece to put a posy or garland of flowers outside ones house on May Day. These are usually garden or wild flowers or a mixture of both and the flowers remain until at least the Festival of St John in June. This is a lovely way to celebrate the old-fashioned damask roses blooming in many gardens here at the moment, as well as the first bright flush of pelagoniums and the last of the wild flowers. I photographed some which caught my eye on my walk down the Kali Strata steps this morning.

Have a good week.

Regards,
Adriana

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About this Blog

I sailed into Panormitis Bay, Symi, by chance one windy July day in 1993 and have been here ever since. The locals tell me that this is one of the miracles of St Michael of Panormitis. A BA graduate with majors in English, Philosophy and Classical Civilisation, the idea of living in what is to all intents and purposes an archaeological site appeals to me. Not as small as Kastellorizo, not as touristy as Rhodes, Symi is just the right size. I live on a small holding which my husband and I have reclaimed from a ruin of over-grazing and neglect and turned into a small oasis over the course of the past 22 years. I also work part-time for Symi Visitor Accommodation, helping independent travellers discover and enjoy Symi's simple pleasures for themselves.

This page is kindly sponsored by Wendy Wilcox, Symi Visitor Accommodation.


Adriana Shum

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