Steady Progress

It may be autumn but Greece is basking in unseasonably warm temperatures and ET3, one of the state television channels, was forecasting temperatures in the thirties for Crete for today and in the high twenties for the South Dodecanese and Athens. A big high pressure system is lingering over the Eastern Mediterranean in stark contrast to the heavy rain and low temperatures experienced over Spain, Portugal and France at the moment. The consistently good weather has ensured steady progress both down in Pedi with the floating crane and up in Chorio at the new sports stadium, as can be seen from the accompanying photographs.

The others who are benefiting from the mild weather to get on with essential infrastructure improvements on the island are the workmen from DEH, the Public Power Corporation. They have been busy putting up new poles and upgrading transformers around the island for over a week, hence the recent power cuts. They were probably also responsible for the two loud explosions that bounced a few people out of bed at 7 a.m on Thursday morning – dynamite is more efficient that jack hammering when it comes to make large holes in Symi’s relentless rock and blasting is the usual method in non-residential areas.

It may be Hallowe’en in other parts of the world but here in Greece this is another commercial opportunity that passes unnoticed. Symi’s cemeteries are carefully tended places and the dear departed are visited on a regular basis. The idea of turning the dead into objects of fear is far from the thoughts of the ladies in black who carry armfuls of flowers up to the cemetery at Agia Marina on a daily basis and make sure that the little flames of Eternal Life never go out. At nightfall the sweet scent of incense rolls down the hill to our farm where it mingles with the aroma of wood smoke from our chimneys, an ancient fragrance lingering on into a modern world.

Down in the harbour there are a few last tourists around, mainly yachtsmen waiting to go across to their winter berths in Turkey and Cyprus. As Symi is a port of entry and a far prettier place to linger than Mandraki in Rhodes, it is a popular haunt with the cruising fraternity at the beginning and end of the sailing season. Speaking of matters maritime, ANES has finally put up its November ferry schedule so we can all plan our shopping and business trips to Rhodes.

Have a good weekend.

Regards,
Adriana

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Bright Blue Sky

The clocks changed yesterday and in the afternoon a chilly north-easterly wind drove us indoors to light the fire for the first time since April. Supper still came from the garden though – fragrant homemade pesto from the basil which continues to flourish in defiance of the changing season. The delicate spires of white flowers are full of bees from my neighbour’s hives so I should have a good haul of seeds to save for next year’s planting. Another neighbour now has a dovecote and a flock of pigeons which he is training. Every afternoon they swoop and soar over our terraces, white and grey feathers flashing against the bright blue sky. Thus far they have shown no inclination to sample our germinating barley, unlike the wild birds who find newly sown fields an easy source of food.

Down in Yialos preparations are underway for tomorrow’s Ochi Day parade and flags are whipping smartly in the brisk breeze. White horses are flickering across the water and small waves are smacking against the quay. A north wind may be chilly but as long as it blows there will be no rain. The long range forecast for our corner of Greece remains clear and dry for at least another week and fingers are crossed that the rain will hold off until after the Panormitis Festival on 7 and 8 November, little more than a week away.

We are still waiting for the ANES ferry schedule for November which should become available in the next day or so. Dodecanese Seaways have already put theirs up and it looks as though the Dodecanese Express is going to be very busy indeed over the Panormitis Festival, running a shuttle service between Rhodes and Panormitis monastery.

Have a good week - and remember to look out for the Symi Visitor's photographs of the Ochi Day Parade.

Regards,
Adriana

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A Reassuring Rhythm

This is proving to be one of the mildest Octobers on Symi in several years and it looks as though the forecast will remain fair until the end of the month. The band of rain currently over Italy may give us a few scattered clouds but by and large the outlook is clear and sunny with midday temperatures in the mid twenties. Readers who are pining for blue skies can see the sunshine over Symi by looking at the webcam mounted on the terrace of the Symi Visitor mansion in Yialos.

Speaking of webcams, if you look at the webcam mounted on the balcony outside Symi Visitor Accommodation you will probably have noticed that one of the locals has his speedboat out on the pavement by the water taxis and is busy with a spot of maintenance. It is an ideal location for the purpose as coffee, advice and company are available at Pachos cafeneion and Dino’s chandlery is in the lane nearby.

As businesses close down for the winter and the tourists depart many Symiots take advantage of the lull before the serious weather sets in to enjoy their island and that includes pottering about in boats. Fishing provides an excellent excuse to head out onto the water for the day or for an overnight trip to one of the more remote bays on the windward side of the island. Meanwhile, in the Pedi valley, my neighbours are busy dag-locking their sheep and ploughing their terraces. The olives will soon be ready for harvest. Island life in the winter follows a pattern that has not changed much since Homeric times, a reassuring rhythm in a turbulent world.

Have a peaceful weekend.

Regards,Adriana

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A Very Pleasant Week

It is amazing how much can happen on Symi in a week. Walking to work this morning, the first thing I noticed is that the floating crane has arrived in Pedi so we can expect serious progress on the marina soon. They obviously took advantage of the exceptionally calm conditions to tow the crane over from Rhodes overnight as the tug was still busy manoeuvring it in the early morning haze. The crane is needed to swing into place the concrete blocks that they have been casting along the waterfront all summer.

The second thing I noticed is that work is proceeding apace on the second level of the new undercover sports facility on the site of the old football pitch in Chorio. The workmen were busy making preparations for the next pouring of concrete.

The third thing I noticed was that the roof has gone up on the second storey of Kampos Supermarket and it is now at the ‘Greek temple’ stage – a completed roof supported by concrete columns. The building regulations here require all new structures to conform to earthquake specifications which means a strong reinforced concrete framework. With the roof up the workmen will now be able to fill in the brickwork and place the doors and windows quite quickly, sheltered from the winter rains.

Weatherwise, it is mild and hazy with no rain or strong winds expected this week. Temperatures range from mid to high twenties during the day to around 15 degrees centigrade at night. It is certainly still possible to eat outside in the evenings but a shawl or jacket may be useful once the dew starts to fall. Late season visitors can look forward to a very pleasant week. There are still quite a lot of tourists around and there was a cruise ship in the harbour yesterday. This is, of course, also one of the most popular months for the walking fraternity and this year’s early rains have brought out an extra treat for hikers with delightful displays of cyclamens and autumn crocuses. The cyclamens only start to flower after the winter solstice but the carpets of neatly painted leaves are beautiful in their own right.

To my regular readers, thank you for all your emails and private messages – I had a thoroughly enjoyable time. And what a joy Athens International Airport (Venizelos Airport) is after the squalor of Terminal Two at Heathrow! Even at 3 a.m Venizelos Airport is awake and welcoming – so for those of you out there who are thinking of traveling scheduled for one reason or another, fear not. Flying via Athens Airport is not the nightmare it used to be in the old days when one had to scramble from one airport to the other to make the internal connections.

Have a good week.

Regards,
Adriana

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Symi’s Other Visitors

A party of 18 Afghan migrants landed at Agia Marina during the night, comprising thirteen men, two women and three children. The boat in which they came across from Turkey capsized and many of the group lost their shoes so it was with bare feet that the some of the men made their way over the mountain to find out where they were. They explained in fluent English that the women and children were still sleeping up on the mountain and would be coming down at midday

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Off to England

This will be my last diary entry for a while as I am off to England to visit family. As I am sure that many of my regular readers are only too familiar with weather conditions in the British Isles I shall spare you a blow by blow account of my stay in Bournemouth.

After the unseasonably inclement weather of recent weeks the long range forecast for Symi promises mild and clear October days, just like the ones we used to have when I first started this diary of weather reports and ‘views from my window’ from Symi back in 2001. The angle of the ‘view from my window’ has changed many times over the years, from one side of Yialos to the other and now from the head of the harbour next to Pachos. Some things have stayed the same, however. Particularly the rolling market that marks the passage of the ‘big boat’ through Symi. The convoys of gypsy lorries laden with everything from tottering piles of garden furniture and plants to rolls of gaudy carpets and stacks of cooking pots. The vegetable hawker whose wares always reflect what is currently in season, from oranges in mid-winter to the first beetroots of late summer. The names and sizes of the day-trip boats may have changed over the years but the day-trippers remain the same. The island’s cosmopolitan visitors and foreign residents in a kaleidoscope of seasonal attire. The Symiots who remain true to themselves, regardless of outside influences.

Many thanks to those of you who have called in to see me during the summer or have sent me emails of appreciation. It is always a pleasure to know who my readers are as it helps me know what is of interest to you all out there, whether you are first time visitors happily anticipating a first visit to Symi or regulars who like to keep track of what everyday life on Symi is really like when you are not here. This year, with the collapse of XL and the end of Kosmar, the number of people who have had to forego their ‘Symi fix’ and depend on these reports and the webcams has increased considerably and I am always aware of this when I write. With this in mind, please excuse the gap in the service. I will be back on line on 20 October.

Regards,
Adriana

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Symi Sunrise 8 October 2008

Early morning light catching the top of the hills above the Pedi road.

Parts of Chorio are already in full sun at 7.30 a.m...

...whereas Pedi Bay is still waiting for the light. See how many rows of hills you can count over on the Turkish coastline. With visibility like this is not surprising we can see the lights on the opposite coast quite clearly at this time of the year.

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Blue Skies Ahead

After a few squally days the sun is shining, the sky is blue and the light crisp and clear. As I was walking down the Kali Strata this morning I was passed by a steady stream of walkers of all shapes, sizes and ages heading for the hills. The weather forecast for this week shows nothing but blue skies ahead and at this time of the year that means exceptionally good visibility in all directions from the top of the island. Rhodes, Tilos, Nissyros and sometimes even Kos can be seen from various view points, not to mention Datca, the Knidos peninsula and the Turkish coastline around Bozburun. It is well worth the hike up to Kokkimides for the views.

Down in the harbour the end of season migration from the islands has begun and some houses are already shut up for the winter. The pessimists and realists can be recognized by the plastic sheeting nailed over doors and shutters on the side of the prevailing weather, often with plastic bags and parcel tape securely wrapped around outside light fittings.

The big Piraeus ferry, the Milena passed through Yialos this morning, bringing carpet sellers and duvet hawkers – a sure sign of the changing season.

Have a good week.

Regards,
Adriana

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Far From Cold

Photos kindly provided by Barry Hankey of Aartworld.com

It is a pearly grey autumn day on Symi with low clouds rolling over the Vigla and intermittent patterings of rain as the humidity liquefies. Clumps of ghostly pale lilac colchicums haunt the terraces and luminous spires of silvery squills are erupting on the rocky hillsides. Usually these indigenous plants appear against a background of bare earth but this year the early rains have provided a fresh green backdrop of new grass and germinating daisies. The countryside is busy at this time of the year. There are walkers on every trail and farmers are out in the Pedi valley, taking advantage of the unusually mild and damp weather to plough their terraces and plant barley for grazing.

The whole of Greece is experiencing some very unsettled weather at the moment with widespread thundershowers and falling temperatures. Here on Symi, however, it is a humid 26 degrees with a tropical sultriness to the air. When the sun breaks through the cloud cover steam rises from the pavements and it is far from cold. Some of the taxi boats are still operating and the beach tavernas are open, albeit with reduced menus.

Have a good weekend.

Regards,
Adriana

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October Ferry Update

Visitors to the island of Symi in October will be relieved to know that the full ANES ferry schedules for the month are now available on line on www.anes.gr. The other shipping company, Dodecanese Seaways, is still only showing partial service on www.12ne.gr so remember to check again closer to the time to be sure that the boat you want is actually running.

Kalo Taxidi!

Adriana

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