The Smell of Bonfires and Incense

The clocks have changed and the sun disappears behind the Vigla at about 3 p.m. The dew starts to fall almost immediately, carrying the smell of bonfires and incense with it. Surfaces that never receive the sun remain slick all day and the Kali Strata is sprouting a carpet of moss and ferns. Autumn crocuses, narcissi and sea squills are coming up in even the most barren looking areas and seeds are germinating in every pocket of soil.

The early rains have caused heavy mist and fog throughout Greece and there have been many flight disruptions caused by poor visibility. It is very grey and very still on Symi today. Rain is forecast for tonight and tomorrow and clouds of all shapes and sizes are already rallying on the skyline. Everyone is suddenly looking a lot more muffled up as anoraks and sweaters that have been in mothballs since March have been rooted out of attics. The few harbourfront shops still open are selling raincoats, umbrellas, winter pyjamas and cheap Chinese knitwear.

The Greek version of the haywain has arrived in the form of Roma driving ten-ton trucks laden with hay and sacks of animal feed. The scampering of sheep bells and bleating of reluctant goats as flocks are moved to winter pastures is very much a feature of the night sounds as the shepherds prefer to do this either late in the evening or at first light.

Have a good week.

Regards,
Adriana

Read more...

A Bit Windy

There’s a chill north wind rumpling the harbour and the vapour trails are blown out into broad ribbons. There are lots of yachts and gulets still around and the Callisto was under our balcony this morning. The photograph shows an interesting little motor yacht that was in Yialos earlier this week.

The children are practising for tomorrow’s Ochi Day parade with much squealing and excitement. It looks as though the weather will be good for the parade, albeit a bit windy, and there is no rain forecast for the next few days.

Up in Chorio work is proceeding apace with the excavations for the new sports complex behind the Taxiarchis hotel. It is important to get this done before the next deluge. As it is the excavations are slowly filling with water draining down from the hillside behind.

The carpet seller has been joined by the boot seller at Kampos corner. The annual migration to Panormitis has already started and when I walk down to the office in the morning I pass the ladies in black, armed with bundles and boxes, waiting for the bus to Panormitis. This is one of the few expeditions where it is not necessary to take bags of paximadia (rusks) – the bakery at Panormitis is famous for them so there is no need to take them from the bakers in Chorio or Yialos.

Have a peaceful weekend.

Regards,
Adriana

Read more...

An Amiable Goat

Read more...

Magical Days

The stormy conditions have long abated and, apart from odd drifts of stones and pools of fast-drying mud, the island is rapidly returning to normal. On Sunday we went up to Kokkimidis, the second highest peak on the island. Although the main Panormitis road, on the bends immediately above Profiti Elias, is still in poor condition with rock falls and dongas from last week’s storm, the cement and dirt track up to Kokkimidis itself was in surprisingly good shape and we had no trouble reaching the top. Apart from shepherds and goatherds tending their flocks we saw no one. It was one of those magical days of slow-rolling mist and tantalizing glimpses of distant sea and shore touched by fleeting sunshine.

There was heavy dew last night and the sky is quite clear today with only isolated clouds. Temperatures are in the high teens and low twenties with enough sunshine around still to power our solar garden lights.

The carpet sellers are back on the island. Judging by the highly stylized tulip designs, they seem to be buying much of their stock in Turkey these days. Apart from the hawkers there is not much retail activity as many places have now closed for the winter or are only open for seriously reduced business hours. Wednesday marks the last day of the season for this year as that is when the last of the UK package holiday visitors depart. There are still some independent souls roaming around in hiking boots, recording flowers and birds, and capturing the island’s charms in paint or film.

Have a good week.

Regards,
Adriana

Read more...

Sparkling Stillness

It is a calm clear day with a cool northerly breeze riffling the water. The air is blindingly clear and the houses seem to shimmer in the light. The island has suddenly become very quiet, as though the summer ‘buzz’ has just been turned off. All sounds have become separate and distinct. A man sneezing in the street. A solitary car passing. Two fishermen talking on the stern of their boat.

This sparkling stillness will be shattered shortly by the arrival of the Symi with a last lingering load of day trippers but soon even that hubbub will disappear as the island settles down into the rhythms of winter life. Many of the tourist shops have already packed up for the year and others are undergoing that miraculous transformation whereby yesterday’s souvenir shop is today’s winter woollies outlet.

The clean up from the storm earlier this week continues and heavy duty road-working equipment has arrived on the island to help with the task.

The long range forecast suggests that the weather will remain fairly settled for the next few days with temperatures between 15 and 22 degrees centigrade and light northerly winds. In sunnier areas where the ground is drying out more quickly farmers have started ploughing their terraces to plant grazing grasses. The stone walls in the Pedi valley are sprouting with ferns and tiny narcissi are pushing up along the paths. It really is a delightful time of the year.

Have a peaceful weekend.

Regards,
Adriana

Read more...

Walking to work

The sky has brightened since I took these at half past seven this morning but there are still plenty of clouds around.

Read more...

After the Storm

This picture shows what our road looked like this morning, and gives an idea of why 4 wheel drives and pick up trucks are more useful than Smart cars around here! Eighty millimetres of rain in 3 hours is a lot of water.

While the town square was awash and the mayor was directing operations from the bridge, in the upper reaches of the Pedi Valley we were having our own fun and games. The Agia Marina river came down in flood for the first time in two years, rolling boulders as it roared into the Pedi Valley. The motor road was blocked by rubble washing down from higher up the Vigla and long after the storm was over we could hear heavy trucks and bulldozers rumbling in the night, clearing roads. Much of the rubble has been dumped at the head of our road, presumably prior to being taken elsewhere, creating a great lake of clay-mud about 30 cm deep judging by the tide-mark on my wellies.

More rain is forecast for today and the clouds are already gathering once again.

The Symi ferry did not make it back last night and was conspicuous by its absence this morning. Forlorn huddles of tourists were standing on the quayside looking at the hole in the water this morning. Fortunately it looks as though the Dodecanese Pride will be coming through. Needless to say, the sea is now as flat as the proverbial pancake! Municipal workers are still clearing rubble and sluicing away mud.

Welcome to the rainy season!

Regards,
Adriana

Read more...

Municipal Election Results 2006

Lefteris Papakalodoukas won by a secure majority of at least 459 votes. At time of writing two ballot papers are still in question and this will be the determining factor as to whether his team will have 8 or 10 members on the town council. These will be chosen from the lists below. A minimum of 120 votes is required for a seat on the council so in principle none of the three foreign candidates qualifies.

Here is the list of results, starting with the winning team of Lefteris Papakalodoukas:

1. Ilias Haskas 281 votes
2. Tsambikos Xanthos 209 votes
3. Eleni Kritikou 198 votes
4. Michael ‘Max’ Ramos 175 votes
5. Panormitis Moskiou 168 votes
6. Constantinos Yiallourakis 165 votes
7. Socratis Maroulis 140 votes
8. Stelios Smyrankis 138 votes
9. Michael Mastrogiannakis 124 votes
10. Lemonia Tsirimona 121 votes
11. Eleftherios Stefanou 120 votes
12. Michael Tsavaris 117 votes
13. Evangelia Petridis 101 votes
14. Dimitris Markoutsas 94 votes
15. Eleftherios Patatakou 91 votes
16. John Tsakkiris 90 votes
17. John Makropoulos 83 votes
18. Francesca Magno 57 votes
19. George Constantinides 48 votes
20. Jean Manship 19 votes

The Opposition Team of Agapitos Antoniadis:

1. Chariklea Androutsopoulou 202 votes
2. Anna Loupi 171 votes
3. Merkouris Moskovis 162 votes
4. John Megaloudis 151 votes
5. George Diasinos 146 votes.
6. Philip Dermitzakis 137 votes
7. Constantine Zouroudis 130 votes
8. Despina Nikolettou 105 votes.
9. Stiliani Zervou 90 votes
10. Maria Polichronaki 86 votes
11. Angelos Michaelou 77 votes
12. Irini Koti 61 votes
13. Maria Tsavaris 61 votes
14. Michael Foundourakis 55 votes
15. Alex Leventeris 53 votes
16. Claire Ackland Zouroudis 50 votes
17. Michael Kladakis 49 votes
18. George Miglis 45 votes
19. Michael Missos 29 votes
20. Argiro Kipriotis 25 votes

Read more...

Spectacular skies and amazing light

This has been a week for spectacular skies and amazing light so I have decided to give you more pictures than usual today. I took these photos on the walk to work this morning and early in the week. The sun only clears the hills embracing Pedi quite late in the morning now and there is very little traffic on the road. Yesterday’s torrential rain has sluiced down the island, leaving trails of sand and drifts of vegetation and the snails are out on the Kali Strata.





The Triton has gone out for the first time this week but things are definitely winding down. Although the sea is still warm enough for swimming, most visitors at this time of the year are more interested in walking, shopping and other land-based activities.

While the number of tourists on the island may be steadily diminishing, there are plenty of people around as voting is compulsory in Greece and Symiots are returning to the island for Sunday’s election. Foreign property owners who are on the voters’ roll are also very much in evidence and both candidates had a good turn out at their meetings for the non-Greek electorate. Watch out for dynamite and a noisy weekend!


Have a peaceful weekend.

Regards,

Adriana
www.symivisitor.com

Read more...

Jenine and Ian's wedding went off beautifully

Jenine and Ian's wedding went off beautifully. Even the weather behaved and the rain clouds held back until the festivities were over. Today's photograph was taken on the beach at Saint Nicholas in Pedi. We will be putting up more photographs on the Out and About page later.

On the subject of weather, the long range forecast for the week is showers and downpours. The town hall has been issuing announcements on the tannoy, warning everyone to move their cars out of the town square and the water courses in case of flooding. Unfortunately the more paths and roads are concreted over the greater the likelihood of flooding as there is nowhere for the water to be absorbed or captured and there are no storm water drains to duct the water harmlessly away. It has been misty all day with low grey clouds, high humidity and no wind. The sea is glassy grey and the gulet drifting off Harani looks as though it has been painted, it is so still. As the rain comes from the south it is still warm with temperatures in the mid to high twenties.

With the elections only a week away both mayoral candidates are holding meetings for the foreign electorate, tonight at the Alethini and tomorrow night at the Conference Centre respectively.

Have a good week.

Regards,
Adriana
www.SymiVisitor.com

Read more...

Clouds of fragrant incense

Yesterday late afternoon, driving up from the harbour, we saw a group of about 20 people of all ages on mountain bikes, catching their breath after the long hill up from Pedi and staring in amazement at the view. They had evidently been dropped off by yacht in Pedi and this was their first glimpse of Yialos.

The full moon is stirring up strong winds in the Aegean and Mykonos airport was closed yesterday. We are fortunate, down here in the sheltered south, to have an extra week or two of mild weather before autumn sets in in earnest and Rhodes airport yesterday was packed with Israelis, Germans, Scandinavians, Poles…

There are tentative forecasts of rain for the forthcoming week and the air is cold enough at high altitude for lingering vapour trails to feather the sky. In the early morning and late afternoon mists, clouds of fragrant incense roll down from the cemetery above our house and books forgotten outside after dark are wet with dew.

All the little hire boats have disappeared from the clock tower. Only the row of red buoys and accompanying red speed boat remain.

Have a peaceful weekend.

Regards,
Adriana
www.SymiVisitor.com

Read more...

The season for hikers

It’s a clear breezy day on Symi. The light northerly wind has cleared away the humidity from last week’s rain and the horizon is defined by purple mountains, punctuated by the crisp white triangles of passing yachts. It is the season for hikers and mountain bikers and walking down to work this morning I passed many of these. It was no surprise to find the mini cruise ship Callisto moored below the office, a fleet of mountain bikes on the top deck, kayaks lashed to the railings and earnest looking types in stout boots rallying on the quayside.

The eruption of vegetation triggered by the early rain continues and there are small shoots popping up everywhere. It will be interesting to see what botanical surprises lie in store as this particular combination of heavy rain, high humidity and warm temperatures is quite unusual for Symi at this time of the year.

Down in the harbour the first truck load of blankets and duvets has just rolled off the ferry and is heading up the hill. The hawkers adjust their wares to seasonal demands as adroitly as the tourist shops. The bikinis and sarongs are being replaced with jumpers and shawls on the stands as shopkeepers take into account those who may not have realised that evenings can be quite chilly here at this time of the year. It is easy to spot the people who ride motor bikes and scooters – they are already wearing more clothes than those of us who get around on foot.

The long term forecast is a bit unsettled and it looks as though there may be some more rain coming at the weekend. It doesn’t seem to be as extensive a front as the last one though.

Have a good week.

Regards,
Adriana

Read more...