Free souvlaki and wine

Last night was Smoky Thursday, the first night of the Carnival season. The town hall organised a party in the square in Chorio, laying on free souvlaki and wine. It was an opportunity for the children to show off their fancy dress costumes for the first time and the weather only blew up at midnight, when everyone was pretty much partied out anyway.
More photos here>

The wind howled all night and this morning the inside of my house looked like a wedding venue after the guests had gone as thousands of almond petals had blown in through the whirligigs and down the chimneys.

The strike is officially over but all shipping in the region is now confined to port by a Force 9 gale and gusts of 50 miles per hour and more. The Proteus is tied up in Kos, the Aegli is tucked up in Rhodes and even the Dodecanese Pride failed to venture forth today. South-easterly gales bound straight intoYialos and we have been hammered by whirlwinds and squalls all day. The storm is expected to blow itself out at some point in the early hours of Saturday but further strong winds are forecast for Monday and Tuesday and the weather is likely to remain unsettled for some time.

Have a good weekend.

Regards,
Adriana
www.symivisitor.com

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A gleaming island surrounded by a silky blue sea

The rain clouds finally departed yesterday morning, leaving us a gleaming island surrounded by a silky blue sea. The asphodels are opening, silvery shoots glinting on the rocky slopes above Pedi and the sheep that graze around the power station are so gorged they are grazing lying down.

We sailed over to Rhodes yesterday afternoon. Sail may not be quite the right word as there was not a breath of wind and our ancient Perkins did a sterling job of pushing 36 feet of barnacles and weed through the empty waters between Symi and Rhodes. In the four hours the journey took us we saw one yacht motoring through the Sesklia Strait, the Dodecanese Pride bustling north and the distant silhouette of a tanker heading into Rhodes. The only ship in Rhodes harbour was a Blue Star ferry. My intention was to catch the Proteus back to Symi, leaving Nicholas to supervise the haul out and take care of the boat. Naturally, in the midst of a major shipping strike I was anxious not to miss the only ferry known to be running, leaving poultry and pets unfed for an indeterminate period of time (living the dream is by no means stress-free!). We arrived in Rhodes with just ten minutes to spare, only to find that the Proteus was delayed returning from Kastellorizon and I still had half an hour to catch my breath before sailing the reciprocal course. The commercial harbour was clogged with long-haul trucks stranded by the on-going ferry strikes and it took nearly an hour for the Proteus to load as many as possible on board to take them to Kos.

The ferry strike is causing huge problems around the country. There are believed to be some 2500 trucks stranded in various ports in Greece and Italy, many of them with perishable goods on board which are now deteriorating. Not surprisingly the truckers themselves are now threatening strike action. Some of the islands have run out of fuel and other essential supplies and a C-130 military plane came to the rescue to transport 35 stranded schoolchildren from Chios, where they had been on a school trip, home to Lesbos. Farmers in Crete, desperate to get their produce to market, stormed the prefecture building yesterday, demanding a solution, and there were clashes in Heraklion and Chania. Another knock-on effect is that all the planes are full and it is impossible to get onto internal flights.



Here on Symi the Aegli is on strike but the Proteus is running, as is the Dodecanese Pride. The competition between these two rivals for the Dodecanese route ensures that in this little corner of Greece it is ‘business as usual’.

Have a good week!

Regards,
Adriana
www.symivisitor.com

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Scraping barnacles in the rain

It has been raining steadily since midnight and Nimos is lost in the mist. Dismal though the day may be it is rather warmer than the preceding three days when cold clear conditions and a brisk bone-numbing northerly prevailed. The men from DEH took advantage of the dry weather to continue with their labours, resulting in various power cuts around the island while they installed a massive transformer on the Pedi road. The rainy weather is expected to clear from Saturday afternoon and mild south westerly winds should prevail for a few days after that. I hope the boffins are right as we are sailing our venerable old wooden ketch across to Rhodes to slip her on Monday and scraping barnacles in the rain is not much fun.

There is a general strike on throughout Greece today so many places are closed. On Symi the Dodecanese Pride ran but nothing else did and the Port Authority's telephone number just rings and rings. The National Bank is closed but the Alpha bank is open. There is talk that the strike will last for 48 hours but at this stage this is unconfirmed. As this strike does affect shipping, anyone planning to travel this weekend would be advised to have a back up plan in case they get stuck along the way.

The confirmed death of six swans from bird flu in northern Greece has not had much impact on the Symiots - those birds on Symi that have not been culled are firmly under lock and key and we haven't seen swans here for years! It is quite weird how quiet the island has become without the crowing of cockerels at all hours of the day and night.

Have a good weekend.

Regards,
Adriana
www.symivisitor.com

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It is numbingly cold

It is numbingly cold and once again the snow ploughs are out in much of Greece. The only drifts of white stuff we are experiencing here on Symi however are almond petals. It looks as though we will have a good crop this year - if our furry friends don't get there first!

The number of poles stacked on the road out of town does not seem to be diminishing and the men from DEH are still hard at work. OTE, the telephone company, has a work crew beavering away too and the cables are being replaced around Chorio. And there is a municipal team busy digging ditches and laying pipes around the harbour. We don't save ALL the work for the tourist season...!

The group of Afghan refugees that has been in quarantine in the old school house in Pedi for a week (see out and about picture) was transferred to the police station today. All refugees now have to be quarantined for 7 days, the incubation period for bird flu, as they have all come through Turkey. Regular readers of the Symi Visitor will be aware that Symi, being a border island, is a regular dropping off point for people-traffickers and many refugees land on our shores. The fortunate ones arrive alive but as the traffickers take advantage of winter storms when there is no shipping, and really have no interest in whether these people survive or not as long as the required sum has changed hands, Symi is no stranger to tragedy on her shores either. A bleak and miserable business, particularly as almost all of them will be deported eventually and will have made the journey in vain.

On a more cheerful note, it's St Valentine's Day and although he isn't an Orthodox saint he is gaining something of a following in Greece these days. To celebrate we sent Klianthi from the Symi Visitor office out with the camera to take some new out and about photographs for you. (Which will appear on the site tomorrow! Mike)

Have a good week!

Regards,
Adriana
www.symivisitor.com

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The almond trees are in full bloom

A great band of grey cloud is draped across Greece, Turkey and the Balkans and even the BBC weather boffins who are usually too busy telling us about sunny pictures in India and downpours in the Philippines to pay much attention to our part of the world, have woken up and are taking gloomy delight in forecasting heavy downpours, sleet, snow and gales for eastern Greece and Turkey. Sounds like fun. Meanwhile a cheery voice on the town tannoy has just announced the power cuts for the next three days. Sigh. While it doesn't really affect me as we aren't on the mains anyway, it is very frustrating for everyone else, not to mention cold. Symi's high ceiling rooms take a lot of effort to heat and cool down very rapidly in an eight hour power cut. As many householders have long since blocked up their chimneys and sealed the old cistern taps and well covers, it is not always possible to reinstate the old ways - lighting open fires and drawing water from cisterns without an electric pump.

On the bright side, all the almond trees are in full bloom, the geese are laying an egg a day (no, they aren't gold!) and the first carrots are up. Purple anemones and white daisies spangle the verges, the barley fields are greening over and a robin has taken up residence in the rose bushes outside our bedroom window. There are hawkers travelling round the islands with truckloads of oranges and tangerines and the big loose-hearted cabbages that grow in warm climates.

And when the power station is switched off, it is amazingly quiet...!

Have a good weekend,

Regards,
Adriana
The Symi Visitor

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Shredding lemon zest


I'm a day early as we are having to work round all the power cuts at the moment. Some are announced over the tannoy but others are unexpected, like the one at 2 o'clock when they replaced the transformer at the bus stop. Winter is the time for all kinds of maintenance including upgrades to the island's infrastructure. We can consider ourselves fortunate that they were able to spare a crew to do the work required here on Symi as many of DEH's workers are still repairing damage in other parts of the country caused by last week's ice storm. On Symi, where the pressurised water that comes out of the tap is dependent on an electrical pump to draw it from the cistern, power cuts also mean no water. Yesterday the electricity was off from 8 am until 3 pm which, as it was a cold wet day, was not pleasant for many of the island's elderly inhabitants who had to cope without heating. It wasn't just the elderly either - I went round to deliver some books to a friend at midday and he was reading in bed under a pile of duvets, saucepans strategically placed under the leaks in the roof!

Yesterday brought a strong easterly wind which cancelled shipping and tossed boats around Yialos like toys. It is quieter today but the front that is currently passing over Italy is expected to reach us at the weekend and gale force winds and heavy rain are forecast for Monday and Tuesday. At this time of the year the weather fronts are very close together and the spells of calm are short indeed. Definitely a time to be doing indoor jobs. I spent yesterday afternoon shredding lemon zest into big preserving jars of vodka - the first step towards making lemon liqueur for the summer - and bottling curry paste before the frost kills off the last of the chillies.

Only 8 weeks to April and the 'official' start of the season but there's still a lot of winter to go!

Have a good weekend.

Regards,
Adriana
The Symi Visitor

Photos: A fresh consignment of electricity poles arrives off the Proteus and the old transformer being removed.

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About this Blog

I sailed into Panormitis Bay, Symi, by chance one windy July day in 1993 and have been here ever since. The locals tell me that this is one of the miracles of St Michael of Panormitis. A BA graduate with majors in English, Philosophy and Classical Civilisation, the idea of living in what is to all intents and purposes an archaeological site appeals to me. Not as small as Kastellorizo, not as touristy as Rhodes, Symi is just the right size. I live on a small holding which my husband and I have reclaimed from a ruin of over-grazing and neglect and turned into a small oasis over the course of the past 22 years. I also work part-time for Symi Visitor Accommodation, helping independent travellers discover and enjoy Symi's simple pleasures for themselves.

This page is kindly sponsored by Wendy Wilcox, Symi Visitor Accommodation.


Adriana Shum

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