Painting and Refurbishing Frenzy

It has been foggy with thick dust in the air since yesterday. The southerly wind came up yesterday evening, creaking and groaning through the trees, and it is still quite choppy now. Shreds of low cloud hang around the mountain tops and visibility is poor. The forecast for the rest of the week is generally overcast with some quite strong winds and the possibility of a shower or two around Friday. There is a big low passing through fairly slowly causing gales in the Ionian and much of the mainland is experiencing quite wet weather.

The Symi was very crowded this morning with people who had come over from Rhodes and further afield for the long weekend leaving the island (see webcam). We went up the mountain yesterday to photograph an archaeological site and there were quite a few Greek tourists on the road, doing touristy things like photographing the views and wrestling with underpowered motorscooters on unfamiliar bends! Sections of the road have deteriorated badly in the winter storms with some deep sinkholes in places and a few rock falls. Nonetheless, it is considerably better than it was when we first came here in 1993, when the road was often impassable after heavy rain and we always took two planks and a spade with us in case we needed to dig our way out. The new trees planted by the municipality with the assistance of the army are taking well and, thanks to the judicious use of fencing wire sheaths, have not suffered from the goats and sheep. There are wild lilies growing in the rocky places and the sage bushes have started to flower. There are also occasional tiny purple irises and crocuses, evidently much stunted by the minute quantities of soil in which they grow among boulders. It is several degrees cooler up there, particularly at night, and the high valleys are still covered with small white daisies whereas in the Pedi valley the larger yellow ones and poppies are starting to take over.

Down in the harbour, the painting and refurbishing frenzy is well under way. The ducks and geese are doing their bit, holding up the traffic, quacking through wet cement, sleeping on the fishing nets and keeping the cats in order. There are pallets of bricks stacked beneath our window and every vehicle that passes seems to have ladders, paintpots, doors or furniture sticking out of it or strapped on somehow.

Have a good week.

Regards,
Adriana

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Sparkling Spring Sunshine

The 25 March parade took place in sparkling spring sunshine which ensured a good turnout (see Out and About pictures). It is now very quiet in the harbour with most people at home or in tavernas enjoying a family lunch of fish in some form or another. (See Recipe of the Week)

It is likely to remain clear for a couple more days before a southerly wind brings clouds into the region. Strong winds are expected early in the week followed by possible showers around Thursday and Friday. These are most likely to be mud showers but there may be some useful stuff too. We have not had anything like enough rain this winter and the abnormally warm dry conditions are already parching the countryside so any rainfall is to the good. Much of Symi has quite clay soil and this soon cracks and hardens when the weather turns dry - which is why the pick is used more often than the spade as a gardening implement!

The excursion boats are all still in the boatyard, being fitted out and repainted for the season. In the last few days there have been a lot more pots of paint in evidence in the harbour too as shopkeepers start to prepare for the season. The latest paving project along the side of the town square is progressing well too and a team of electricians was in evidence in Chorio yesterday, wiring up the new streetlights.

Happy Easter to all those to whom it is applicable. We have a while to wait yet here!

Have a good weekend.

Regards,
Adriana

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The First Day Trippers

It is a little cooler today with fresh northerly breezes and a few lavender clouds drifting across the forget-me-knot sky. With the drier conditions the cyclamens are fading away, to be replaced by a delicate web of vetches, clovers and tiny pastel coloured wild peas. White and lilac irises are opening in the drying water courses and the yellow daisies are taking over on the verges and terraces. The lambs are fattening up well for Easter - some of the ones in my neighbourhood are almost as big as their mothers.

The first day trippers were in the harbour yesterday although there is not much open yet. Greek Easter falls on 1 May this year so Lent has only just started in this part of the world and we have a long way to go before the chocolate bunnies hop into Armara supermarket! The tavernas which are open now are the ones catering for the locals and they are serving Lenten fare. The butcher is not carrying much meat but the fishermen are doing well and the fridges are full of frozen octopi and mussels.

There is nothing spectacular forecast on the weather front for the next few days. Light winds from various directions and temperatures between 9 and 20 degrees with a few clouds but no rain this far south although they are still experiencing quite wintry conditions in northern parts.

Have a good week.

Regards,
Adriana

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Drifts of Azure Lupins

Fine sunny conditions continue to light up our little corner of the Mediterranean and yesterday the first poppies opened in my garden. I have to wet down the greenhouse several times a day to keep the temperatures reasonable and those parts of the garden that receive direct sunlight need daily watering to prevent the surface from crusting over. It is not quite safe to move everything out of doors yet.

Drifts of azure lupins tower above the white daisies in many fields and the larger yellow daisies are starting to flower by the football pitch. Going out to Nimborio yesterday, the hillside above the road was a mass of white and pink rockroses and several large brown cows made an incongruous sight, sitting in a rocky field of cyclamens and contemplating the sea. Most of the houses are still boarded up as the stormy season is by no means over and many waterfront properties have their more delicate shrubs shrouded in shadecloth and sacking as protection against hail and salt spray.

High pressure is expected to continue to dominate in the area for a few more days and temperatures are ranging between 15 and 25. It is still distinctly cold in the shady places - like our office for instance!

Have a good weekend.

Regards,
Adriana

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Spring is here

Carnival is over and the fancy dress costumes are back in the cupboard for another year. In answer to some of the questions raised recently on the Chat Page, various parties and activities take place from Smoky Thursday onwards but the main events tend to be over the weekend preceding Clean Monday. This year the local dramatic society also put on a children's play at the Cultural centre on Saturday night in addition to the usual municipal events. In some of the bigger towns and cities in Greece Carnival is an excuse for a sustained period of partying and no work but in small places like Symi not only can the economy not survive everyone downing tools for a week or more but it also tends to be more child orientated.

Clean Monday was a lovely spring day although regrettably windless for the kite flying fraternity... Judging by some of the squealing brakes and tipsy singing as the cavalcade made its way back down the mountain in the late afternoon, other traditional Clean Monday pastimes continued as usual! Everyone was back at work this morning however - coming down the Kali Strata at half past seven I passed the usual assortment of builders, labourers, fishermen etc.

Weatherwise, there is a high pressure system over the area with flat seas, clear skies and temperatures around 16 degrees. It is expected to reach about 20 towards the end of the week before the wind changes to the north again. Growing conditions are perfect - the weeds are doubling in size every 2 days and the insect life is proliferating at about the same rate. Fresh leaves are unfurling on the trees, the apricot trees and wild medlars are flowering and the first small furry nuts are forming on the almonds. Spring is here.

Have a good week.

Regards,
Adriana

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Dracula Fangs with Anoraks

Dawn arrived in a barrage of hail stones followed by a succession of fast moving thunder showers. We have already had two power cuts this morning, probably linked to the weather as the rain is coming down in torrents. Temperatures started to fall yesterday afternoon and it was only 3 degrees centigrade inside my kitchen when I put the kettle on at six this morning. We will be lucky if it makes it up to 10 degrees today as the wind is blowing briskly from the north and passes over a lot of snow before it whistles across Symi. Walking to work this morning I saw a sheep dog barking puffs of steam as he rounded up his sodden flock.

As the wind picks up the clouds are expected to clear tomorrow and a clear cold day with heavy frost is forecast for the whole country - good news for those who have been flooded out or snow bound in other parts of the country. It might be cold but at least they have a chance to clean up in anticipation of the Carnival on Sunday and the Clean Monday festivities. Here on Symi most of the fancy dress costumes have transferred themselves from shops to Symiots and interesting ensembles featuring combinations of ballerina frills with wellies and dracula fangs with anoraks are to be seen among the juvenile population.

Incidentally, today is an example of how the new car ferry is an improvement on the old. The weather forecast is gale force 8 but she was still able to run as she is rated to run in heavier weather than any of the other vessels in ANES's fleet. Of course we don't know for sure that she'll be back this afternoon...

Have a warm dry weekend.

Regards,
Adriana

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Inclement Weather

The rain stopped just long enough for the Dodecanese Day parade yesterday morning before drifting back over the island. At dawn this morning the Pedi valley was full of clouds and mist lingered until mid-day. Although visibility is now improving it is still raining heavily. The long range forecast shows more rain followed by strong northerly winds with temperatures dropping back into single figures at the end of the week and possible gales for the Clean Monday long weekend. The outlook for kite flying picnics is not brilliant at the moment... The Force 9 gale we experienced over the weekend murdered a few kites judging by the shreds wrapped around the power lines. Speaking of power lines, we have had more power cuts than usual in Chorio over the last few days and although all the television channels are still with us, some are fuzzier than usual.

The inclement weather is no deterrent to the road gang jackhammering away below our window, altering the quay to a more convenient height to accommodate the vehicle ramps of the Symi. Said vessel is herself in Rhodes today as the Monday trip was rescheduled to Tuesday to allow for the parade. The same applies next week as Clean Monday is a national holiday.

As far as local Symiot opinion goes, one should never regard winter as really over until the 1 May holiday. Perhaps there is some truth in that!

Off home to chop firewood and give the chickens dry bedding.

Have a good week.

Regards,
Adriana

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The Sea is Bottomless Blue

The sandstorm that brought visibility down to less than 2 kilometres yesterday has blown away on a chill north westerly wind. Clean white and grey clouds glide over a pale blue winter sky and the sea is bottomless blue. Occasional squalls of small white waves whip through the Nimos channel and end their journey in a splash against the fuel jetty.

White gulls, white ducks, white washed houses - the prevalent colours are echoed in the streamers of Greek flags strung between the lamp posts along the quay near the memorial as preparations are made for Monday's Dodecanese Day parade.

A lone steel-hulled yacht lies alongside the quay, behind the Symi II. The yacht has travelled as far as I have and from much the same starting point as I recognise it as being a Bahrens design, built at a shipyard in Durban sometime in the eighties! She is closed up and secured with no signs of anyone about but she is flying a big billowing red ensign.

There are not many people about today. It is not really a day for outdoor pursuits unless very well wrapped up. A gaggle of teenagers from the high school has just chattered past, the wind plucking at their scarves and fluttering their books. The occasional passing motorcyclist can only be identified by the bike, all drivers being equally anonymous, clad in jeans, anoraks and mittens, hats pulled down firmly over eyes and scarves up over noses, the only clue to gender being wind-blown tresses.

The forecast for the next few days remains unsettled with the possibility of strong winds and heavy rain. The snow ploughs are still out in many parts of Greece and we are one of the few places that is not being battered at the moment. Turkey makes a useful wind break at this time of the year!

Have a good weekend.

Regards,
Adriana
The Symi Visitor

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About this Blog

I sailed into Panormitis Bay, Symi, by chance one windy July day in 1993 and have been here ever since. The locals tell me that this is one of the miracles of St Michael of Panormitis. A BA graduate with majors in English, Philosophy and Classical Civilisation, the idea of living in what is to all intents and purposes an archaeological site appeals to me. Not as small as Kastellorizo, not as touristy as Rhodes, Symi is just the right size. I live on a small holding which my husband and I have reclaimed from a ruin of over-grazing and neglect and turned into a small oasis over the course of the past 22 years. I also work part-time for Symi Visitor Accommodation, helping independent travellers discover and enjoy Symi's simple pleasures for themselves.

This page is kindly sponsored by Wendy Wilcox, Symi Visitor Accommodation.


Adriana Shum

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